(Brussels, Thursday, Friday and Saturday) Brussels may be the home to many of the most powerful institutions in the European Union but it holds a far greater personal power: a few days here has the ability to expand your waistline exponentially. Three of the most important local products are guaranteed to raise your cholesterol…and to raise an even bigger smile.
The waffles! They’re everywhere. Beautiful round or rectangular batter ironed into snack food perfection. Every street corner sells them and the toppings just add to the delight. One coffee shop near the hotel makes the lightest waffles you can imagine and includes a little pot of the deepest, darkest molten chocolate—not too sweet—to spread on top. With a strong cappuccino and time spent lingering, it starkly illustrates the difference between European and American food culture.
Chocolate is also different here. It is fresh, comes in every permutation imaginable and, again, is far less sweet than what we are used to back home. There are big chains and small, local chocolatiers. A Brussels chocolate factory even has a tour…with free samples, of course. I believe some of our students are intent on trying a sample from every chocolate place (and we insist on trying any chocolate they have bought—just to make sure it is safe, of course!)
Belgium claims to brew more than 400 different types of beer. We are hopeful our students will just accept that claim and not try to count. It is worth noting that European attitudes toward drinking are different than American attitudes. It is legal to drink here at 18 and beer and wine are very much part of the culture. Young people often grow up with beer and wine at mealtime and understand the way those beverages complement meals. European students do not binge drink to the extent that some American students do. Our students, those who are legal and choose to drink, are encouraged to understand the approach here: that the local beers should be sipped and appreciated in moderation. Beer and wine are part of the culture…drunkenness and loutish behavior are not and that behavior will not be tolerated by the local authorities or us. The Belgium beers range from the relatively familiar to strong Trappist beers traditionally brewed by monks and unique cherry and raspberry flavored beers. Different beers are brewed in different regions and folks here are justifiably proud of these well-crafted brews. These are drinks with taste and substance...clearly not the Bud Lite many students are used to.
But enough about our stomachs, our brains are also being filled. Thursday was spent on a tour bus around the city allowing us to soak in the hundreds of years of history. One of the highlights was a stop at the site of the 1958 Worlds Fair where we went into the Atomium (http://www.atomium.be/Main.aspx?lang=en ) …a huge replica of an Atom that you can explore, see a panoramic view of Brussels, and even have a sandwich. Fifty years ago, we all had such great hope for what the future might hold, how “Atoms for Peace” could make the world a wonderful place…if cold war nukes didn’t annihilate the human race first. The exhibition provides a look at a time that is very familiar to baby boomers but needs to be explained to students to give them some perspective. The Jetsons helps explain that vision of the time. But, as Dr. Morgan said, “Where is that future they promised us?” (We are both anxiously awaiting delivery of our flying car and robotic maid).
Students had all day to hop on and off the city tour and explore parts of the city that interested them. Unfortunately, Europe was closed that day. Actually, it was “Mini-Europe” that was closed…a country-by-country miniature recreation of the iconic sites from every country in Europe that is next to the Atomium. At least we are getting to see many of the real sites. The evening could be spent trying some of the great local restaurants (no Pizza Hut or McDonalds allowed!). Everyone turned in early because Friday was a busy day.
We grabbed a morning train to Brugge on Friday. This is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe. Miraculously untouched by all the wars, Brugge has houses, churches and other buildings dating back to the 15th century…and they are all authentic. We spent the morning at the University of Europe were some of the students seemed interested in applying for the one-year Master’s program there. The afternoon was time for onion soup, pastry…and the sales that are traditional in Europe in January. We were home by dinner time, many students went to the local Laundromat (called the “Wash Club”) and, with clean clothes in hand, had another early evening before heading out of town on Saturday.
The students had a free day to travel on Saturday and had the option to stay overnight wherever they traveled as long as they let us know where they would be. Three-quarters of them decided to go to Amsterdam (about three hours away by train) and the rest went to Paris (less than 90 minutes on the new fast train). The students booked their own travel and even booked a train that left around 6 am. They were bound and determined to get the most out of their day. We’ll see some of them tonight, I’m sure. The rest we’ll see tomorrow when we will all be going to a museum. I stayed in Brussels to do laundry, look at the sales and find some street food. The frites in Brussels are like nothing else in the world. Followed by chocolate, the feeling is sublime. Good thing we are walking about 6-7 miles every day. Tomorrow, Sunday, is our last full day in Brussels before heading to Eastern Europe.
Saturday, January 12, 2008
EU-tiful day
(Brussels, Wednesday) The morning started out dark, chilly and rainy. But our day was spent going to the heart of what this study abroad course is about. Students started with breakfast and a lecture by Dr. Morgan about the institutions we would be visiting. Then it was a quick walk to the subway, purchase of fare cards and a few stops later we were at the European Parliament building here. The students saw where the 750 or so members of the European Parliament sometimes meet and they had a terrific lecture on the inner workings of the Parliament. The it was lunch time.
Lunch was on our own in the old area near the brand new EU buildings. Some students found Italian restaurants, some ate French food. Dr. Morgan and I stopped for one of my favorite European lunches: A hole in the wall carryout where the baguettes were fresh, the Parma tasty and the Brie better still. Sandwiches don’t get much better than that. And one hour later, we were back walking to our next destination.
The European Commission was nearby. It is one of the major parts of the puzzle that is the European Union governing structure. It was here where students got one of the most engaging lectures on this difficult subject. The lecturer was a leading law school professor who had the ability to make this difficult subject understandable and interesting. The 90-minutes went by quickly. Something to think about: There are 27 different countries in the European Union, all of whom directly elect representatives to the EU Parliament. That is almost one-half billion people who are represented here, more people than the US and Russia combined.
After our last lecture, it was back on the subway and free time for the students. It even started to get sunny! Thursday was a less formal day where we spent time together exploring Brussels.
Lunch was on our own in the old area near the brand new EU buildings. Some students found Italian restaurants, some ate French food. Dr. Morgan and I stopped for one of my favorite European lunches: A hole in the wall carryout where the baguettes were fresh, the Parma tasty and the Brie better still. Sandwiches don’t get much better than that. And one hour later, we were back walking to our next destination.
The European Commission was nearby. It is one of the major parts of the puzzle that is the European Union governing structure. It was here where students got one of the most engaging lectures on this difficult subject. The lecturer was a leading law school professor who had the ability to make this difficult subject understandable and interesting. The 90-minutes went by quickly. Something to think about: There are 27 different countries in the European Union, all of whom directly elect representatives to the EU Parliament. That is almost one-half billion people who are represented here, more people than the US and Russia combined.
After our last lecture, it was back on the subway and free time for the students. It even started to get sunny! Thursday was a less formal day where we spent time together exploring Brussels.
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
On The Road Again….
(On the bus from Frankfurt to Brussels via Luxembourg) Dawn comes late in Northern Europe in January. Our bus came early. At seven am, our bleary-eyed group stumbled out in the dark to the coach waiting in front of our hotel. With a quick “Auf Veidersen” to Frankfurt we headed down the Autobahn toward Luxembourg. The students all seemed impressed with our transport: comfortable seats, a beer tap and coffee maker (neither were functioning), a bathroom…and a private sitting area in the back. A group of the boys commandeered the sitting area.
Everyone had enough energy from morning coffee to swap notes on what they did on the last night in Frankfurt. Most went out for dinner in the downtown area or in the more up market part of the city on the other side of the river. They did some shopping, some wandering about or met some locals and expats in the pubs near the train station. It was a successful trip, best summed up by one student who declared, “I got my schnitzel.” After that it was surely time to leave Germany.
It wasn’t long before the bus grew quiet as we continued on in the morning darkness past fields and farms. One notices the number of wind turbines jutting up from farm fields, supplying cheap and clean power to nearby houses. After about one hour on the road, there is a church outlined in the pale reddish glow of the rising sun as the nearby village lights fade into morning. We are making excellent time as we push through the bucolic countryside. Being ahead of schedule means we can stop for coffee.
It wasn’t exactly the Vince Lombardi rest stop on the New Jersey turnpike but the place we stopped had good coffee, clean bathrooms, a convenience store where we could stock up on water and cookies and, of course, a Burger King (thankfully closed). Well, maybe we were closer to Jersey than we thought. It wasn’t long after our stop that we pulled into the European Court of Justice.
The ECJ is not a place one would stumble upon. It is in the new, European Community area of Luxembourg. It is here where disputes among corporations and individuals in united Europe are adjudicated. We sat in one of the smaller courtrooms, surrounded by booths where interpreters sit translating proceedings between 23 different languages. A clerk to one of the justices talked with us for more than one hour on the intricacies of the European Union judicial system. After our talk, it was time for lunch in the court canteen. Typically, there was a very wide variety of dishes from all over Europe—pasta, pork, beef dishes—as well as salads, deserts and, of course, beer and wine by the bottle or glass. It was the lunch hour rush so the students were forced to split-up and sit with strangers—as one does in Europe. It was a great experience for them as they spoke to people who worked at the courts and swapped life stories. Before we left, we were given a big packet of information about the court, including the annual report. The packet was rather heavy. How heavy you wonder? One of our women students remarked that it “weighed more than my shoes.” We left the court with enough time to head to the center of old Luxembourg and spend 40 minutes exploring this wonderful old historic town that could be the picture postcard for the stereotype of what so many of us might imagine Europe should look like. After a few souvenirs, some pictures and some pastries, the bus headed down the road toward Brussels. The Belgium border was a mere 10 minutes away.
It was just after five by the time we arrived at the hotel in Brussels and the sun was already setting. The hotel is a typical European city three star…clean, comfortable…and in a great location. After dropping luggage in our rooms, Dr. Morgan took us on a tour of Brussels. We saw some grand old ruins, some churches and the old market area and guildhalls. Terrific sites but the highlight…for the students and us…were all the chocolate stores! Chocolate to the left of us…chocolate to the right…in front and in back of us…and all wonderful. It sounded like dinner to many of us but we did get proper food at a wonderful, typical Belgium restaurant in the old market area. Many of the students tried the local specialty—mussels. The food was great. On the walk home we had to stop by the waffle shop for Belgium waffles with chocolate. Some how, we managed to waddle back home: tired, full, happy…and with wonderful chocolate stained clothing. Three countries in one day…topped by chocolate. It doesn’t get much better.
Tomorrow: The European Parliament and the European Commission.
Everyone had enough energy from morning coffee to swap notes on what they did on the last night in Frankfurt. Most went out for dinner in the downtown area or in the more up market part of the city on the other side of the river. They did some shopping, some wandering about or met some locals and expats in the pubs near the train station. It was a successful trip, best summed up by one student who declared, “I got my schnitzel.” After that it was surely time to leave Germany.
It wasn’t long before the bus grew quiet as we continued on in the morning darkness past fields and farms. One notices the number of wind turbines jutting up from farm fields, supplying cheap and clean power to nearby houses. After about one hour on the road, there is a church outlined in the pale reddish glow of the rising sun as the nearby village lights fade into morning. We are making excellent time as we push through the bucolic countryside. Being ahead of schedule means we can stop for coffee.
It wasn’t exactly the Vince Lombardi rest stop on the New Jersey turnpike but the place we stopped had good coffee, clean bathrooms, a convenience store where we could stock up on water and cookies and, of course, a Burger King (thankfully closed). Well, maybe we were closer to Jersey than we thought. It wasn’t long after our stop that we pulled into the European Court of Justice.
The ECJ is not a place one would stumble upon. It is in the new, European Community area of Luxembourg. It is here where disputes among corporations and individuals in united Europe are adjudicated. We sat in one of the smaller courtrooms, surrounded by booths where interpreters sit translating proceedings between 23 different languages. A clerk to one of the justices talked with us for more than one hour on the intricacies of the European Union judicial system. After our talk, it was time for lunch in the court canteen. Typically, there was a very wide variety of dishes from all over Europe—pasta, pork, beef dishes—as well as salads, deserts and, of course, beer and wine by the bottle or glass. It was the lunch hour rush so the students were forced to split-up and sit with strangers—as one does in Europe. It was a great experience for them as they spoke to people who worked at the courts and swapped life stories. Before we left, we were given a big packet of information about the court, including the annual report. The packet was rather heavy. How heavy you wonder? One of our women students remarked that it “weighed more than my shoes.” We left the court with enough time to head to the center of old Luxembourg and spend 40 minutes exploring this wonderful old historic town that could be the picture postcard for the stereotype of what so many of us might imagine Europe should look like. After a few souvenirs, some pictures and some pastries, the bus headed down the road toward Brussels. The Belgium border was a mere 10 minutes away.
It was just after five by the time we arrived at the hotel in Brussels and the sun was already setting. The hotel is a typical European city three star…clean, comfortable…and in a great location. After dropping luggage in our rooms, Dr. Morgan took us on a tour of Brussels. We saw some grand old ruins, some churches and the old market area and guildhalls. Terrific sites but the highlight…for the students and us…were all the chocolate stores! Chocolate to the left of us…chocolate to the right…in front and in back of us…and all wonderful. It sounded like dinner to many of us but we did get proper food at a wonderful, typical Belgium restaurant in the old market area. Many of the students tried the local specialty—mussels. The food was great. On the walk home we had to stop by the waffle shop for Belgium waffles with chocolate. Some how, we managed to waddle back home: tired, full, happy…and with wonderful chocolate stained clothing. Three countries in one day…topped by chocolate. It doesn’t get much better.
Tomorrow: The European Parliament and the European Commission.
Monday, January 7, 2008
Germany
(Frankfurt, Germany) How can 60 hours feel like 60 days? We’ve only been here those few hours but we’ve seen and done so much that it feels like Germany has been our home for months. Where to start. Despite the late takeoff from JFK, arrival in Frankfurt was right on time. A quick trip through customs, a short coach ride and we were at the hotel—where our rooms were hours from being ready. So, instead of unpacking and taking a shower we stacked our bags in the hotel luggage room (see picture) and we were quickly out the door to discover Frankfurt.
The tram stops in front of our hotel and within 15 minutes we were at the central rail station walking toward the old market area of Frankfurt. Dr. Morgan showed us some of the area and a tour guide took us to an observation deck on top of one of the tallest buildings in the city with a great view of everything, showed us around the historic church, the Goethe house and other significant areas. Little pre-World War II history remains because of extensive bombing during the war. But the rebuilt church includes the remains of some of the original Roman structures on the site. It was at the church, after our extensive walk just after departing our overnight flight, where one of the students quipped that she could now compete with her parents tales of a rough childhood because surely, “we had walked for miles and miles—up hill both ways!” The reward for all that hard work was dinner in a traditional German restaurant—and an inadvertent show.
The students spread out at a number of tables and each table got a big platter of meat: a few racks of pork on a bone, some boneless pork chops, some sausages—all on top of potatoes and sauerkraut. There was more than enough food for even the hungriest guys who worked up big appetites in our walk around Frankfurt. And then the show. Dinner was the night before Orthodox Christmas so there was a very big Christmas tree in the square outside the restaurant and it was visible from where we were eating. It was easily as high as the three story ancient ceremonial hall it stood in front of—the hall where successful sports teams are congratulated. And of course it was fully decked out in colorful Christmas lights, lights that we noticed start to flicker a bit as we were eating dinner, and then started to flicker more—until they stopped flickering as the beautiful, tall Christmas tree burst into flames! Before long those unmistakable sounding European sirens filled the square as the fire brigade rushed to the tree. The fire was put out, the ancient hall was saved and the tree remained standing—but without the lights (Journalists reading this take note: the traditional Christmas story, “family of five homeless after tree catches fire,” clearly has its international counterpart). After all that excitement it was back to the hotel to check in and sleep very soundly. (Hear students Mike Monkelien, Meghan Toomey,Dave Matz,Katie Tabor, and John Chiaramonti at dinner that night--before the fire--talking about their first day in Germany. Click on "F'Furt dinner reax.")
Early on Sunday we all got up and took the train to Nuremburg. Three and a half hours later we were in that historic town that was prominent in the rise of the Nazi party, the home to the Nazi party rally grounds and Hitler’s grandiose vision of the Third Reich as well as the place where Nazi leaders faced war crimes tribunals and international law relating to war crimes was developed. The courtrooms were open for tours as was an excellent museum on the site of the Nazi’s unfinished Congress Hall where one can see stark evidence of Nazi propaganda and the horror that resulted from it. You cannot walk away without that stunned shock of “how could this happen” even 70 years after the fact. The students were all sent out on their own and they all managed to successfully navigate the city with little input from their professors. They learned a lot—about history and themselves. For the trip back home, we grabbed sandwiches, pretzels, doughnuts and other sustenance for the long ride home (I’m sensing a food theme for this study abroad).
Today started with Dr. Morgan giving a lecture about the European Central Bank and then it was off to the bank for a tour. As one might expect, security is very tight. Empty your pockets, take off your belt, your jacket and your sweater. Even then one is likely to set off the detectors and trigger a hand search. It almost seemed as if many of our students got a free massage from security. Another trip through the detectors and I’m sure all of us would have a free x-ray of our spleens. But the bank is very important in the life of the new united Europe…and this is the 21st Century were everyone is security conscious. The lecture at the bank was fascinating—the students got a glimpse of the economic future they will be dealing with throughout their lives. With the weak dollar and the strong Euro it is a future some predict may already be arriving. At the end of the tour of the central bank the students got free samples—of central bank pencils and notepaper. The afternoon was spent exploring Frankfurt on our own followed by an early evening lecture by Dr. Morgan on the European Courts, our first stop tomorrow as we head to Luxembourg early in the morning. And then, if it’s Tuesday, it must be Belgium.
The tram stops in front of our hotel and within 15 minutes we were at the central rail station walking toward the old market area of Frankfurt. Dr. Morgan showed us some of the area and a tour guide took us to an observation deck on top of one of the tallest buildings in the city with a great view of everything, showed us around the historic church, the Goethe house and other significant areas. Little pre-World War II history remains because of extensive bombing during the war. But the rebuilt church includes the remains of some of the original Roman structures on the site. It was at the church, after our extensive walk just after departing our overnight flight, where one of the students quipped that she could now compete with her parents tales of a rough childhood because surely, “we had walked for miles and miles—up hill both ways!” The reward for all that hard work was dinner in a traditional German restaurant—and an inadvertent show.
The students spread out at a number of tables and each table got a big platter of meat: a few racks of pork on a bone, some boneless pork chops, some sausages—all on top of potatoes and sauerkraut. There was more than enough food for even the hungriest guys who worked up big appetites in our walk around Frankfurt. And then the show. Dinner was the night before Orthodox Christmas so there was a very big Christmas tree in the square outside the restaurant and it was visible from where we were eating. It was easily as high as the three story ancient ceremonial hall it stood in front of—the hall where successful sports teams are congratulated. And of course it was fully decked out in colorful Christmas lights, lights that we noticed start to flicker a bit as we were eating dinner, and then started to flicker more—until they stopped flickering as the beautiful, tall Christmas tree burst into flames! Before long those unmistakable sounding European sirens filled the square as the fire brigade rushed to the tree. The fire was put out, the ancient hall was saved and the tree remained standing—but without the lights (Journalists reading this take note: the traditional Christmas story, “family of five homeless after tree catches fire,” clearly has its international counterpart). After all that excitement it was back to the hotel to check in and sleep very soundly. (Hear students Mike Monkelien, Meghan Toomey,Dave Matz,Katie Tabor, and John Chiaramonti at dinner that night--before the fire--talking about their first day in Germany. Click on "F'Furt dinner reax.")
Early on Sunday we all got up and took the train to Nuremburg. Three and a half hours later we were in that historic town that was prominent in the rise of the Nazi party, the home to the Nazi party rally grounds and Hitler’s grandiose vision of the Third Reich as well as the place where Nazi leaders faced war crimes tribunals and international law relating to war crimes was developed. The courtrooms were open for tours as was an excellent museum on the site of the Nazi’s unfinished Congress Hall where one can see stark evidence of Nazi propaganda and the horror that resulted from it. You cannot walk away without that stunned shock of “how could this happen” even 70 years after the fact. The students were all sent out on their own and they all managed to successfully navigate the city with little input from their professors. They learned a lot—about history and themselves. For the trip back home, we grabbed sandwiches, pretzels, doughnuts and other sustenance for the long ride home (I’m sensing a food theme for this study abroad).
Today started with Dr. Morgan giving a lecture about the European Central Bank and then it was off to the bank for a tour. As one might expect, security is very tight. Empty your pockets, take off your belt, your jacket and your sweater. Even then one is likely to set off the detectors and trigger a hand search. It almost seemed as if many of our students got a free massage from security. Another trip through the detectors and I’m sure all of us would have a free x-ray of our spleens. But the bank is very important in the life of the new united Europe…and this is the 21st Century were everyone is security conscious. The lecture at the bank was fascinating—the students got a glimpse of the economic future they will be dealing with throughout their lives. With the weak dollar and the strong Euro it is a future some predict may already be arriving. At the end of the tour of the central bank the students got free samples—of central bank pencils and notepaper. The afternoon was spent exploring Frankfurt on our own followed by an early evening lecture by Dr. Morgan on the European Courts, our first stop tomorrow as we head to Luxembourg early in the morning. And then, if it’s Tuesday, it must be Belgium.
Sunday, January 6, 2008
UPDATE
We are safe and sound in Frankfurt. All students...and luggage...accounted for. Great days Saturday and Sunday. Details to follow. (Note updated audio from before take off from NYC)
Eight miles high….
(40,000 feet above the Atlantic) It’s finally here. Departure from the USA heading to our first stop in Frankfurt, Germany. Finally. The flight was delayed about 1:15 but the take off was smooth on a cool, clear New York night. With the tailwinds, we should still be in Frankfurt by 9:30 Saturday morning. The students are all tired but in great spirits.
Some have been up and traveling since before dawn…flying in from Washington, DC, Orlando, Kansas City, Greensboro, Raleigh and other places around the country. Everyone got here in plenty of time and got on the plane with no problems. Most of the luggage got on the plane with us. Only one student is without luggage as we head toward Germany (don’t worry, her parents know so if you haven’t heard from your daughter…it’s not her). She was delighted to find a toothbrush in the complimentary pack given to everyone on board the flight. She has already found other students her size and the clothes swap is ready to go. She is not worried at all…the kind of great attitude that will help make this study abroad a success.
If you are of a certain age you might remember the magic of airplane travel. If you’ve flown at all in the past few years you probably (with apologies to John Sebastian) no longer believe in magic. The cabin is crowded, the extra legroom for international coach travel disappeared years ago and, as I’ve characterized it before, trying to sleep turns us all into human origami. But after a wonderful airplane dinner—vegetable ravioli or chicken in some difficult to identify sauce—it’s time to catch a few hours sleep. Frankfurt will be here in just a few hours and it will be a long day. And getting to Germany to start this marvelous trip makes it all worthwhile. Next update from Germany.
Some have been up and traveling since before dawn…flying in from Washington, DC, Orlando, Kansas City, Greensboro, Raleigh and other places around the country. Everyone got here in plenty of time and got on the plane with no problems. Most of the luggage got on the plane with us. Only one student is without luggage as we head toward Germany (don’t worry, her parents know so if you haven’t heard from your daughter…it’s not her). She was delighted to find a toothbrush in the complimentary pack given to everyone on board the flight. She has already found other students her size and the clothes swap is ready to go. She is not worried at all…the kind of great attitude that will help make this study abroad a success.
If you are of a certain age you might remember the magic of airplane travel. If you’ve flown at all in the past few years you probably (with apologies to John Sebastian) no longer believe in magic. The cabin is crowded, the extra legroom for international coach travel disappeared years ago and, as I’ve characterized it before, trying to sleep turns us all into human origami. But after a wonderful airplane dinner—vegetable ravioli or chicken in some difficult to identify sauce—it’s time to catch a few hours sleep. Frankfurt will be here in just a few hours and it will be a long day. And getting to Germany to start this marvelous trip makes it all worthwhile. Next update from Germany.
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