Saturday, January 12, 2008

Waffles and Chocolates and Beers, oh my!

(Brussels, Thursday, Friday and Saturday) Brussels may be the home to many of the most powerful institutions in the European Union but it holds a far greater personal power: a few days here has the ability to expand your waistline exponentially. Three of the most important local products are guaranteed to raise your cholesterol…and to raise an even bigger smile.

The waffles! They’re everywhere. Beautiful round or rectangular batter ironed into snack food perfection. Every street corner sells them and the toppings just add to the delight. One coffee shop near the hotel makes the lightest waffles you can imagine and includes a little pot of the deepest, darkest molten chocolate—not too sweet—to spread on top. With a strong cappuccino and time spent lingering, it starkly illustrates the difference between European and American food culture.

Chocolate is also different here. It is fresh, comes in every permutation imaginable and, again, is far less sweet than what we are used to back home. There are big chains and small, local chocolatiers. A Brussels chocolate factory even has a tour…with free samples, of course. I believe some of our students are intent on trying a sample from every chocolate place (and we insist on trying any chocolate they have bought—just to make sure it is safe, of course!)

Belgium claims to brew more than 400 different types of beer. We are hopeful our students will just accept that claim and not try to count. It is worth noting that European attitudes toward drinking are different than American attitudes. It is legal to drink here at 18 and beer and wine are very much part of the culture. Young people often grow up with beer and wine at mealtime and understand the way those beverages complement meals. European students do not binge drink to the extent that some American students do. Our students, those who are legal and choose to drink, are encouraged to understand the approach here: that the local beers should be sipped and appreciated in moderation. Beer and wine are part of the culture…drunkenness and loutish behavior are not and that behavior will not be tolerated by the local authorities or us. The Belgium beers range from the relatively familiar to strong Trappist beers traditionally brewed by monks and unique cherry and raspberry flavored beers. Different beers are brewed in different regions and folks here are justifiably proud of these well-crafted brews. These are drinks with taste and substance...clearly not the Bud Lite many students are used to.

But enough about our stomachs, our brains are also being filled. Thursday was spent on a tour bus around the city allowing us to soak in the hundreds of years of history. One of the highlights was a stop at the site of the 1958 Worlds Fair where we went into the Atomium (http://www.atomium.be/Main.aspx?lang=en ) …a huge replica of an Atom that you can explore, see a panoramic view of Brussels, and even have a sandwich. Fifty years ago, we all had such great hope for what the future might hold, how “Atoms for Peace” could make the world a wonderful place…if cold war nukes didn’t annihilate the human race first. The exhibition provides a look at a time that is very familiar to baby boomers but needs to be explained to students to give them some perspective. The Jetsons helps explain that vision of the time. But, as Dr. Morgan said, “Where is that future they promised us?” (We are both anxiously awaiting delivery of our flying car and robotic maid).

Students had all day to hop on and off the city tour and explore parts of the city that interested them. Unfortunately, Europe was closed that day. Actually, it was “Mini-Europe” that was closed…a country-by-country miniature recreation of the iconic sites from every country in Europe that is next to the Atomium. At least we are getting to see many of the real sites. The evening could be spent trying some of the great local restaurants (no Pizza Hut or McDonalds allowed!). Everyone turned in early because Friday was a busy day.

We grabbed a morning train to Brugge on Friday. This is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe. Miraculously untouched by all the wars, Brugge has houses, churches and other buildings dating back to the 15th century…and they are all authentic. We spent the morning at the University of Europe were some of the students seemed interested in applying for the one-year Master’s program there. The afternoon was time for onion soup, pastry…and the sales that are traditional in Europe in January. We were home by dinner time, many students went to the local Laundromat (called the “Wash Club”) and, with clean clothes in hand, had another early evening before heading out of town on Saturday.

The students had a free day to travel on Saturday and had the option to stay overnight wherever they traveled as long as they let us know where they would be. Three-quarters of them decided to go to Amsterdam (about three hours away by train) and the rest went to Paris (less than 90 minutes on the new fast train). The students booked their own travel and even booked a train that left around 6 am. They were bound and determined to get the most out of their day. We’ll see some of them tonight, I’m sure. The rest we’ll see tomorrow when we will all be going to a museum. I stayed in Brussels to do laundry, look at the sales and find some street food. The frites in Brussels are like nothing else in the world. Followed by chocolate, the feeling is sublime. Good thing we are walking about 6-7 miles every day. Tomorrow, Sunday, is our last full day in Brussels before heading to Eastern Europe.

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