(Budapest, Thursday) They’re gonna make a big star out of me. OK, not me.But someone is starring in a movie about the 1956 Hungarian revolution that is filming in our lobby. The star is carrying old suitcases, the “bellhops” are wearing old uniforms and some old lamps have been placed on the reception desk along with a bell. But not much needs to be done to transport this historic old hotel back 50 years to a time when it played a pivotal role in the planning for the revolution. The lights, cameras and large crowd of movie makers are very modern. Some of the students are in the lobby watching. And if you have ever seen a movie being made you know it is like watching paint dry…only slower. As for the title of this entry, my apologies to Buck Owens and Ringo Starr.
The students had the morning for independent study or to take care of chores or shop. The afternoon was spent in class followed by a trip to the US embassy to talk with the economic officer here. It was a fascinating hour with a knowledgeable diplomat who was very generous with his time. After that, we took the underground to Buda to see the traveling exhibit of Titanic artifacts (maybe this was movie day). It is incredible to see what has been scooped off the ocean floor and the story was presented in a very moving way. Unfortunately, we all know how it ends.
Tomorrow we are up at 5:30 for a three-hour train ride to Vienna and a full day of meetings that includes visits with some ambassadors and other high-ranking officials. Some of us plan to stay overnight, others may return here. Because I plan to stay, the next blog post may not be until Saturday night or Sunday.
Thursday, January 24, 2008
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
The Sun’ll come out….
(Budapest, Wednesday) Today! The sun actually came out today. It has been unusually mild in this part of the world for January but it has been uniformly grey. It was nice to see the sunshine as we took the bus across the river to Buda. It was there that we talked with someone from the European Roma Rights Centre. These are the folks who look after the rights of Roma also called Travelers or Gypsies. This nomadic group of people has been persecuted throughout the years and they were victims of Adolf Hitler. They continue to be discriminated against. We spent an interesting 90 minutes hearing about the struggle to get equal rights for the Roma.
Students had the next 24 hours free for independent research. Some are going to explore the caves in Buda that were used by the Nazis in WWII, some are heading to a traditional Budapest spa for a soak in the hot springs that run under this city. I spent the day wandering around town, having goulash in the market and then walking to Gerbaud—a 150-year-old coffee house that instantly transports you back to 19th century Europe. It’s a great place to quietly sit, sip coffee, eat a decadent pastry and watch the world go by outside. It’s the kind of leisurely afternoon we Americans so rarely allow ourselves. It’s a shame really because it is a known medical fact that if you relax and eat slowly enough, pastries have no calories.
Tomorrow: a free morning followed by a trip to the US embassy.
Students had the next 24 hours free for independent research. Some are going to explore the caves in Buda that were used by the Nazis in WWII, some are heading to a traditional Budapest spa for a soak in the hot springs that run under this city. I spent the day wandering around town, having goulash in the market and then walking to Gerbaud—a 150-year-old coffee house that instantly transports you back to 19th century Europe. It’s a great place to quietly sit, sip coffee, eat a decadent pastry and watch the world go by outside. It’s the kind of leisurely afternoon we Americans so rarely allow ourselves. It’s a shame really because it is a known medical fact that if you relax and eat slowly enough, pastries have no calories.
Tomorrow: a free morning followed by a trip to the US embassy.
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Sunrise, Sunset
(Vilnius) Sunday was 1940 in Vilnius. We started at 10 am in the old Jewish ghetto where we met our guide, the daughter of an Auschwitz survivor. The next few hours transported us back to a time when Jewish residents of this city were forced into a small area where streets out of the ghetto were blocked and windows painted over; people were prisoners in these few blocks. If you were Jewish you wore a yellow star. And then it got bad as Jews were herded into one small area of houses, houses that were then set on fire with ghetto residents in them. Vilnius had 80,000 Jews before WWII, 3,000 after the war. There were 105 Jewish houses of worship before the war in this city knows as the Jerusalem of Europe. One synagogue remains. It was a sobering morning.
The afternoon was free time to do that final shopping or go to the top of the rebuilt castle tower for a last look at Vilnius. That evening we had our group goodbye meal at an Indian restaurant owned by a friend of Dr. Morgan. The food was excellent and the company even better. After dinner, Lithuanian-American friends of Dr. Morgan took everyone out for ice cream at Sopranos (yes, that’s the name of the gelato place—more American culture exported).
And it finally came to me: there is a pop culture reference to this country. Think, Cole Porter. Think, “Let’s Do It.” Here’s the verse:
In Spain, the best upper sets do it
Lithuanians and Letts do it
Let's do it, let's fall in love
Leaving on a Jet Plane
(Vilnius, Budapest, Monday) We had until early afternoon for that last minute Lithuanian lunch or pastry (both if we were really lucky). Then it was time for us to hustle into seven taxis for the ride to the airport. With relatively warm weather throughout our stay, we were all surprised as it finally started to snow just as we were leaving. But there was no problem getting there or getting through security. They called the flight and then many of our students were in for a surprise. We were loaded onto a bus that drove us along the tarmac to our plane parked on the field—a propeller plane. It was one of those 64 seat short hop props, the first time many had been on that sort of plane. So, as our student Amanda suggested, we weren’t leaving on a jet plane…but we did have a great ride. We stopped in Warsaw long enough for a quick brat and then onto another prop plane exactly like the first. Another smooth flight and we were on the three vans to the hotel.
The hotel is the nicest yet and one of historical significance. It is one of the oldest hotels in Budapest. Hitler used to climb up to a top structure (no longer extant) and look down at the Jewish ghetto below. The 1956 student revolt started with a rally in the lobby. And every major event seems to have started with a meeting in the lobby here. Our first night here we walked around the local area and saw where soviet tanks rolled down the streets in 1956. You can see the bullet holes in the area were students protested during those times and the soviets finally tried to end any dissent. We continued on and had a great group dinner.
On Top of Old Buda…
(Budapest, Tuesday) It was a day to learn about everything Hungarian. First stop, the history museum. We saw artifacts and learned everything about the culture going back more than one thousand years and continuing through WWII, the Soviets, 1956 and freedom in the 1990s. Then it was on to the market on the banks of the Danube for some goulash or sausage or stuffed cabbage for lunch. After that, we got a wonderful four-hour bus tour of Pest and Old Buda including a chance to go into St. Matthias church and a chance to see the city from the highest peak in Buda. A magnificent view and great afternoon. Our guide had some great insight into life during Soviet times as well as adjusting to the transition. We are all tired but having a great time, learning a lot, and enjoying this magical central European city.
The afternoon was free time to do that final shopping or go to the top of the rebuilt castle tower for a last look at Vilnius. That evening we had our group goodbye meal at an Indian restaurant owned by a friend of Dr. Morgan. The food was excellent and the company even better. After dinner, Lithuanian-American friends of Dr. Morgan took everyone out for ice cream at Sopranos (yes, that’s the name of the gelato place—more American culture exported).
And it finally came to me: there is a pop culture reference to this country. Think, Cole Porter. Think, “Let’s Do It.” Here’s the verse:
In Spain, the best upper sets do it
Lithuanians and Letts do it
Let's do it, let's fall in love
Leaving on a Jet Plane
(Vilnius, Budapest, Monday) We had until early afternoon for that last minute Lithuanian lunch or pastry (both if we were really lucky). Then it was time for us to hustle into seven taxis for the ride to the airport. With relatively warm weather throughout our stay, we were all surprised as it finally started to snow just as we were leaving. But there was no problem getting there or getting through security. They called the flight and then many of our students were in for a surprise. We were loaded onto a bus that drove us along the tarmac to our plane parked on the field—a propeller plane. It was one of those 64 seat short hop props, the first time many had been on that sort of plane. So, as our student Amanda suggested, we weren’t leaving on a jet plane…but we did have a great ride. We stopped in Warsaw long enough for a quick brat and then onto another prop plane exactly like the first. Another smooth flight and we were on the three vans to the hotel.
The hotel is the nicest yet and one of historical significance. It is one of the oldest hotels in Budapest. Hitler used to climb up to a top structure (no longer extant) and look down at the Jewish ghetto below. The 1956 student revolt started with a rally in the lobby. And every major event seems to have started with a meeting in the lobby here. Our first night here we walked around the local area and saw where soviet tanks rolled down the streets in 1956. You can see the bullet holes in the area were students protested during those times and the soviets finally tried to end any dissent. We continued on and had a great group dinner.
On Top of Old Buda…
(Budapest, Tuesday) It was a day to learn about everything Hungarian. First stop, the history museum. We saw artifacts and learned everything about the culture going back more than one thousand years and continuing through WWII, the Soviets, 1956 and freedom in the 1990s. Then it was on to the market on the banks of the Danube for some goulash or sausage or stuffed cabbage for lunch. After that, we got a wonderful four-hour bus tour of Pest and Old Buda including a chance to go into St. Matthias church and a chance to see the city from the highest peak in Buda. A magnificent view and great afternoon. Our guide had some great insight into life during Soviet times as well as adjusting to the transition. We are all tired but having a great time, learning a lot, and enjoying this magical central European city.
Monday, January 21, 2008
UPDATE
(Budapest, Monday) Vilnius to Warsaw...Warsaw to Budapest. Everyone made it safe and sound...had great dinner...everyone happy. More details to follow.
Sunday, January 20, 2008
Teach Your Children Well
Dr. Morgan asked our students what they have learned so far. Here is what they wrote.
By Jamie Lee DeVantier-Sophomore-Broadcast Communications
After taking about ten years of history throughout school, wouldn’t you think one teacher would have mentioned to one of the twenty of us something about Lithuanian history? Our class visited a Genocide Museum in the center of Vilnius, the capitol of Lithuania, on Tuesday where we were introduced with facts and events that occurred during the Soviet rule. Thousands of innocent people were tortured and killed. Although we have learned about the holocaust and how World War II ended in 1945; we found out it didn’t end for the country of Lithuania until 1991. Throughout the tour of the former KGB prison, now turned into a museum, we saw actual cells, torture chambers, and the execution room. The comfort level throughout the class was tremendous due to the amount of new disturbing information being presented to us. Thousands around the city, including many our age lived through this tragedy without most of the world being informed. This one visit made me rethink the importance of foreign aid and what the US government chooses to release to their citizens.
By Christopher Swartz
I believe that by being in the EU my fundamental understanding of the European state has shifted. I now feel that I have surpassed the general ignorance and misconceptions inherent in the American mindset and have been able to become acquainted to the numerous cultures of Europe. What I find most interesting is that these countries could pull themselves from the miasma of world war, shed their hubris, and build a collective union as strong (albeit complex) as this one. I believe that it will be interesting to watch how the EU reacts towards the new challenges off Islamic Ideological warfare, a strong outside presence in the new member countries, and the challenge of maintaining a strong, yet young, economy.
By Ryan Andres, Junior, Biology
The concept that surprises me the most about this trip hasn't been about Europeans, but instead about American attitudes towards Europeans. Most Americans automatically assume that every single European we come across on this trip will be able to speak English. Rarely will an American ever attempt to speak the local language first. Instead they just start speaking English and if someone doesn't understand them they simply get louder and slower with their words. One of my best experiences on this trip so far occurred in the Laundromat in Belgium. We ran into a very nice Belgian who spoke only broken English. While we weren't able to communicate much, he knew enough English to tell us that we were stupid for traveling to a country where we didn't know the language. After thinking about it and observing, I noticed that not only do most Americans not know how to speak European languages they make fun of Europeans for making mistakes in English. It just surprises me how everyone thinks of the United States as the most advanced, Western, and well-educated nation in the world yet very few can actually speak a foreign language. Instead we travel and expect others to learn our languages, adopt our customs and become more like us. Yet we still get mad when Europeans turn their backs on us for not even attempting to learn their language. On top of that we get mad when people don't help us when we are lost but how many of us would be willing and/or able to help a lost tourist who spoke no English back in the United States? All of these experiences just made me think that we should be more grateful for those that can help us instead of mocking and complaining about those that don't.
By Christopher Champney
In all honesty I really did not know what to expect when I landed in Vilnius, Lithuania. My grandmother’s family emigrated from Lithuania back in the mid 1800s from a town somewhere near the city of Kaunaus. Growing up next door to her I was much better acquainted with Lithuanian culture and history than the vast majority of Americans. However what I knew upon arrival did not nearly prepare me for the experience I would have in Vilnius. Our first significant stop was at the old Russian KGB prison. This was truly a moving experience. The brutality suffered by the Lithuanian people at the hands of their Soviet oppressors was overwhelming. Seeing the cells where people were tortured and the room where thousands met their death by firing squad instills an indescribable emotion in one's self.
Another highlight of the trip was the museum of Lithuanian National History. Here I was able to see how my grandmother's family would have lived for generations. I had heard stories from my grandmother of the old country passed down to her. She told me that they had lived as serfs tilling the land of their Russian lord for no pay and confined to their small wooden hovel in a state of virtual slavery. Luckily they managed to raise the money and sneak away aboard a ship to America otherwise I would not be writing this reaction. However to see the clothes, art, tools and hardships they would have used and faced reveled to me just how different their lives were from my own. Even though much of the history discussed dealt with Soviet oppression the hardships suffered by these people under foreign powers was very much the same. While at the museum I was particularly struck by one artifact. This was a sword used by a legendary Lithuanian general who led an army that rode to the rescue of the besieged city of Vienna, Austria centuries ago and saved it from a much larger Turkish army. I can remember my grandmother telling me this story as a child, as her parents must have told her, reminding her of a time when their people where a powerful nation free from oppression by foreign powers. This link with my family's past will leave an indelible mark upon my memory one I will tell my own children one day.
By Natalie Moore- Junior
One thing that I will always remember from this trip is the day we went to the genocide museum in Lithuania. This was formerly a KGB (Russian secret police) jail and the horrible atrocities that took place in this building left me speechless. We saw the rooms where people were held, tortured and then executed just for being Lithuanian. The worst part of the tour was the realization that there were prisoners in this jail during our lifetime and the rest of the world did nothing about it. These people went through a time of persecution that can still be seen in the untrusting character that comes out when they realize that we are foreigners. It bothers me to think that people could be treated this way somewhere else in the world today and we know nothing about it. I think the world has to wake up and realize that we still need to fight for human rights.
By David Matz -Senior
Business Administration – Finance
As a student who has several experiences studying abroad, I have been most impressed by the Communist Party influences that have been left by the Soviet Union and are still in place upon the city of Vilnius. Throughout Vilnius, many of the buildings that we have seen and visited still have signs of Communist influence. For example, the architecture of the Lithuanian Parliament and the sports arena clearly display the plain block architecture that is viewed as quite ugly. Additionally, Russia currently controls a significant influence on the content available on television in Vilnius. Most recently we have seen the EuroNews television network blocked due to the fact that they were discussing the sensitive relations between Russia and the European Union. Due to the fact that Lithuania is relatively a newly established country, many stories and pictures of the rule under communist Soviet Union on Lithuania are displayed in museums that we have visited. The people of Lithuania are very proud of their history yet stories of communist rule are still ever present throughout the city.
By Katie Tabor
Everyone hears about West Europe, what about East Europe? I myself never thought about what happened to countries like Lithuania and Estonia after WWII. At the museum in Vilnius, I final came to realize that Lithuania has never really had freedom. To me, after WWII all the countries were given their freedom back for at least a few years. I did not realize that Russia immediately took over countries. No freedom for over seventy years is a concept that is hard to grasp. People today can still remember what it was like to have been born without freedom. For example, many of the people we have meet in Vilnius remember what it was like to be controlled in every aspect of their lives. They know what it is like to have no power or free will. I have never been oppressed or forced to do anything against my will. To me knowing that the people of Lithuania were not free for so long is a culture shock for me. If I learn nothing else on this trip, I have at least learned more about East Europe than I have ever known.
By Meredith Krause-International Studies: Concentration in Europe
Elon University-Class of 2008
Throughout this course we have been to many different locations, but Lithuania seemed to catch my eye the most in terms of its History. In America we are given our own history as well as that of Europe in our basic history courses, but never have I heard about the Genocide of the Lithuanian people. It came as a complete shock to me when we visited the Genocide Museum here in Vilnius because I was under the impression that the only genocide that had occurred was the Holocaust. I was terribly wrong. During our tour of the museum we were informed of the different methods in which the KGB (Russian Committee for State Security) interrogated, tortured, and killed approximately 1300 Lithuanian people. What shocked me the most about this horrific event is not only how the KGB decided to torture the poor individuals predominately through means of water torture, but how the rest of the world turned their backs to them as they screamed for help. In America it is easy to believe that the rest of the world has no affect on us, but that only fuels the European’s stereotype of us as being ignorant. Ultimately through our visit to Vilnius I have learned how important the protection of human rights is and what can happen when they are taken away. This country has given me a different outlook on Europe and how important it is to step outside of our Western bubble and appreciate what we have been given.
By Whyte Carter -Junior Elementary Education Major
Throughout history groups of people have turned to religion to guide them and give them hope during time of great hardship. After spending some time now in Lithuania, I have found that this trend has not been followed. Lithuanians were originally Pagan and later mixed Paganism with Christianity in the sixteenth century. Under the severe oppression of Russian Communist rule, all religion was squashed. The many magnificent churches and cathedrals found in Vilnius were transformed into grain storage sheds and prisons. I was surprised to learn that when the Communist regime fell 17 years ago, the Lithuanian people did not scramble to reestablish their religious practices and buildings. Like most of Europe, Lithuania is a very secular country, leaving most churches empty on the weekends. I for one thought that Lithuania would have been eager to celebrate religion, especially after all of the suffering they have endured. However, while the Russian Orthodox cathedrals and Catholic churches still stand firm (although some are undergoing reconstruction), Lithuanian religiosity seems to have crumbled.
By Alex Coffman, Sophomore, Business Management major
For most, Lithuania is a country that can’t be pointed out on a map. The country’s history is one that is rarely heard about. There aren’t chapters written about it in history books and few professors even know its significance. Even membership to the European Union in 2004 hasn’t really developed Lithuania’s importance for most. For our class, Lithuania has been a visit full of a rich history, one that doesn’t go very far back. Our professor, Betty Morgan, is well aware of Lithuanian’s position in this world and the struggle it has gone through for most of it’s time. What most people don’t realize is that Lithuania is a country whose longest run of independence was 24 years. Now, after becoming free from Soviet rule, they are still 7 years from breaking their current independence record. Our class has also learned about an almost completely un-talked about genocide that ended in our lifetime. Even with their freedom, there is a constant fear of a Russian eye looking down on this country. We call it history, but really it is the present. This newly independent nation seems to be still searching for some of their independence.
By Amanda Zamzes-Senior
Public Administration/Political Science
Many of the students arrived in Vilnius excited to see what a former Soviet Union nation would look like almost two decades after the Soviets had been removed. I, however, arrived ill and could not wait for time to rest. After spending some time in the hotel resting, a trip to the Baltic-American Clinic was in order. While probably not to my parents enjoyment, this was one of the most enlightening experiences. After filling out the appropriate forms I tried to explain to the nurse what was wrong. Words like "gross" and "yucky" are not words that work to describe anything in Lithuania. It was particularly nerve wracking when the nurse was trying to stick me for an IV while talking to the doctor in Lithuanian. I finally understood what it would be like to come to America and not be able to speak English. The only difference is that in Europe many people speak English and many of the menus are also written in English. This appears odd to me because the United States does not have a national language so there is no reason why other languages should not be common place whereas a country such as Lithuania has it's own national language and in addition many people speak English.
*For all those nervous parents out there everything is fine and I'm on the mend.
By Kourtney Cloak
During our first meeting for the European Union study abroad trip, I was skeptical of the course. While my friends were going to come back with tans from Australia and Peru, I was going to cloudy, rainy, cold countries in Europe. Our professor even warned us about the little sun we would see and the depressing weather we would surely experience. While the trip began with me being groggy, tired from the plane, and ready for the bed waiting for me back at the hotel, once adjusted to the time zone I was ready to conquer Europe with my classmates. After having already traveled to European countries that attract the most tourists, such as Paris and London, I was anxious when we arrived in Lithuania. Most of my friends laughed when I told them I was traveling to such a remote and unknown country. However, I quickly discovered that most students who did not sign up for the EU study abroad trip were missing out on a great opportunity Elon offered. My first impression of Lithuania was it was cold and bleak. The buildings were architecturally unappealing and no one wanted to help me figure out anything in English. After traveling the city and exploring it on my own, I learned a lot more than I previously thought I would. I feel like this city is forgotten and discarded as an Eastern European city with not a lot to offer. However, Lithuania has so much history that is was never mentioned in Western European history. After visiting the Lithuanian National Museum, the old KGB jail, and the Lithuanian Parliament, I realized how much history this country has which goes unnoticed. I was embarrassed at my ignorance of this country's struggles and battles that lasted well into my lifetime. I feel like this country is so under-rated and forgotten. Western civilization needs to pay more attention to Lithuania and the battles these people are still fighting to gain control of their country.
By Halley Spong-Sophomore-Corporate Communications
Imagine living in a country that has been independent for almost 50 years total. Since World War II the Soviet Union has occupied the small country of Lithuania causing a massive genocide in which thousands of citizens were either executed or sent to concentration camps in other countries. In 1991 the Russians finally left, allowing the Lithuanians to move on with their lives. However in reality the Russians never really left.
Thursday morning during our class session Dr. Morgan informed us that on Wednesday a TV channel was turned to English which broadcasted an event dealing with the United Kingdom and Russia. Although Lithuania is supposed to be independent the Russians exercised their power and turned the station off. The station wasn't turned off because it was in English, but because it had to do with Russia being viewed negatively. The Russians didn't want the Lithuanians to see what was going on so they made sure the broadcast couldn't be viewed.
This incident has only made it more clear to us that the Russians aren't willing to give up what they believe is theirs. The idea that Russia still holds so much power over Lithuania also makes us wonder if they would take over the country again. This possibility of another occupation isn't far from people’s minds however hopefully this time the possibility won't be ignored.
By Kristopher Mannen, Junior, Engineering and Physics Major.
We have been in Lithuania now for 4 days and this experience has been much different from the rest of the trip. Having started in Western European countries, the sudden switch to the Lithuanian way of life came as a bit of a shock. The amount of pain and suffering this country has gone through and the incredible fight against oppression is unimaginable. What is most upsetting to me is that while I live in the United States where my country is supposed to be the biggest super power in the world, I can honestly say that until now I have heard nothing of the events that took place in Lithuania. To me, it seems as if this was another “Rwanda” where our country knew of the problems but didn’t want to recognize them. Despite the oppression, Lithuania has come a long way. For the most part, the city has been structurally rebuilt and is in fairly good condition. Technology is just as up-to-date, if not better than most places in the United States and they are extremely modernized. The people, however, appear to be in a somewhat depressed state, and rightfully so. They don’t seem to be as friendly and welcoming as has been the case in most of the Western European countries that we’ve visited. All put aside though, I have had a wonderful time in Lithuania, learning both about their past and experiencing their culture, and I am looking forward to the final few days here.
By Christina Peterson-class of 2010-International Studies/French Major, Business minor
Thus far, Lithuania has been a nation that has opened many closed doors, even invisible doors, for me. This is a country that I knew absolutely nothing about before setting out on this journey to discover the EU.
Lithuania has only been an independent country for 17 consecutive years. In this time, the people as a whole have made significant strides in reestablishing themselves after Soviet occupation. Though they suffered many hardships, they have begun to break away from foreign rule and become an independent nation.
While considering Lithuania’s new sovereignty, I began to reflect on the founding of our own nation. In comparison, the United States went through many wars over 50 years (the Revolutionary War, the War of 1812, the Civil War) before they officially became a recognized nation. Lithuania, on the other hand, has only had 17 years of independence and has already grown significantly by creating and maintaining permanent stores and marketplaces. The rebound of Lithuania after Soviet occupation has been incredible and is without a doubt something to admire. In these 17 years, efficient public transportation and agricultural production have also been formed. In addition, Lithuania became a member of the European Union in 2004. Even the United States could not fulfill all of the economic requirements to be part of the EU.
Currently, I truly believe that the Lithuanian people have a real sense of who they are and what they want to become. This could not be more rare for such a young nation. They are making positive strides and connections not only economically but politically as well. It might take a few more generations to realize the full capabilities of the Baltic States such as Lithuania, but I have full confidence that if they continue to follow the path they are on they will achieve great success.
By Katelin Clark-Sophomore-Broadcast Communications
With a plethora of books and maps in my suitcase, I approached the EU trip confident that I was completely prepared and aware of what I was about to explore. However, my experiences in Lithuania slapped me with a harsh reality that I did not expect. From my basic research, I could easily tell you that Lithuania is a country of about 3 million people and that the Soviets and Germans fought for it in WWII, but this doesn’t even begin to explain what has happened and is continuing to happen underneath the surface. What I have learned in my past four days here goes way deeper than I could have ever imagined.
Our class trip to the Genocide Museum was something I will never forget. Taking an extensive tour of the rooms in which many Lithuanians were tortured (just years before by the Soviets) was enough to give me the permanent chills. However, what is incredibly moving and inspirational to me is how much the country has developed and has built a promising future that once seemed unimaginable.
Just sitting at the bus stop, I have watched many elderly people pass by, and thought about all of the violence they must have been through; how they have surely lost a friend or loved one; how they have had to fight hard for independence. But, the fact that life goes on for them, and that they can still laugh and enjoy life, gives me hope for the future of the country, and makes me appreciate all I have.
By John Chiaramonti-Senior-Biology Major
After spending three days in Vilnius, Lithuania I have noticed many differences between Vilnius and the other European Union countries. One day we had access to Euronews, which was a new network that described European Union policies and markets. When this network ran the story of the dispute of England versus Russia, within 12 hours, the network was shut down and the station in red writing said, the show has been cancelled. I thought that Lithuania was an independent country, but after seeing how Russia has control over the Baltic States, I have come to understand that Russia still has control over the smaller European Union countries. I soon learned that Lithuania will soon lose their energy independence and have to rely on Russia for energy.
By Jeff Benjamin-Junior, Business Major
Lithuania is a country that has been free for about 30 of the past 200 years. The 170 other years Lithuania has been dominated and suppressed by the Polish, Germans, or Soviets. This would lead you to believe the country would be backwards and have low standards of living. I've been surprised at how much the country has caught up in the past 17 years in which it has been a free country. It is hard to recognize any sign the soviets were here. They occupied the country from the end of World War II, 1945, to the fall of the Soviet Union, 1991.
Lithuania has a population of about 3.5 million (301 M. in US) and a GDP of $15,300 (US $43,800). Even with the drastically different statistics between the US and Lithuania, the two statistics Lithuania doesn't seem that peculiar to an American.. There are high end stores that play American music, American TV shows, nice restaurants, and of course a McDonalds within one block of our hotel. Of course there are poorer areas of the city, but in all it seems familiar to small US cities. Some of the visible differences include fewer skyscrapers and a population that is taller and blonder than the US (Lithuania loves its basketball team and I'm told has the highest % of blondes in the world). Lithuania seems to have done well moving from a small soviet satellite nation to a democratic one. Certainly Lithuania is experiencing small bumps on the road to being a prosperous democratic nation, but I'm surprised at how far it has come in the past 17 years and how much we have learned in the past 12 days.
By Michael Monkelien
One of the most important things I have learned so far is the relationship between Lithuania, the European Union, and Russia. After being held by Russia for so long going through prosecution, Lithuania is about to be dependent on them once again. Very soon Lithuania’s last power plant will be closed down and they will be very dependent on Russia for all energy sources. I feel like the European Union, being the next big authority should be responsible in looking after its states. I don’t think that this little country should have to depend on the country that put it through so much to supply them with the energy it needs to survive. This would just be giving control back to Russia. The EU should take it upon them to make it their goal to supply their states with the power and other resources needed. They should not let a member state be so dependent on another country, especially if it just won freedom from that country. I don’t think that the EU is watching its borders very closely and that if they are not careful, there is a possibility Russia might step in again, in one way or another.
By Meghan Toomey-Senior-Majors: Political Science/Public Administration
Minors: Business Administration/International Studies
Communication through words, body movements or hand movements, it is something that is part of everyday life. How do you decide who you communicate with or how you communicate with them? In the United States, communication, for the most part, is articulated between those who speak the same language. Americans hesitate to communicate with those who do not speak English. Every month there is a bill on the house or senate floor trying to make English the United State’s primary language instead of encouraging Americans to learn other languages. It must be so hard for foreigners who do not speak English to visit because Americans are not welcoming to non-English speakers nor do most take the time to use other forms of communication to interact. We chose not to communicate.
When traveling the EU, most Europeans speak two, three languages, and if English does not happen to be one, they are usually more then happy to have you point things out. Speaking multiple languages is usually encouraged and many times necessary for everyday life. In Lithuania, there seems to be less English speakers then other counties we have visited thus far in the EU. Most Lithuanians speak their own language as well as Russian because of the strong Russian influence in the country. Like other EU countries, if they do not understand what is being articulated, most try and understand using other forms of communication. We have run into some cases where we have run into Lithuanians who are somewhat timid about speaking with us, but it is becoming more and more clear why as we learn about there history of foreign influence. However it will make me think twice the next time I run into someone who does not speak my language.
By Jamie Lee DeVantier-Sophomore-Broadcast Communications
After taking about ten years of history throughout school, wouldn’t you think one teacher would have mentioned to one of the twenty of us something about Lithuanian history? Our class visited a Genocide Museum in the center of Vilnius, the capitol of Lithuania, on Tuesday where we were introduced with facts and events that occurred during the Soviet rule. Thousands of innocent people were tortured and killed. Although we have learned about the holocaust and how World War II ended in 1945; we found out it didn’t end for the country of Lithuania until 1991. Throughout the tour of the former KGB prison, now turned into a museum, we saw actual cells, torture chambers, and the execution room. The comfort level throughout the class was tremendous due to the amount of new disturbing information being presented to us. Thousands around the city, including many our age lived through this tragedy without most of the world being informed. This one visit made me rethink the importance of foreign aid and what the US government chooses to release to their citizens.
By Christopher Swartz
I believe that by being in the EU my fundamental understanding of the European state has shifted. I now feel that I have surpassed the general ignorance and misconceptions inherent in the American mindset and have been able to become acquainted to the numerous cultures of Europe. What I find most interesting is that these countries could pull themselves from the miasma of world war, shed their hubris, and build a collective union as strong (albeit complex) as this one. I believe that it will be interesting to watch how the EU reacts towards the new challenges off Islamic Ideological warfare, a strong outside presence in the new member countries, and the challenge of maintaining a strong, yet young, economy.
By Ryan Andres, Junior, Biology
The concept that surprises me the most about this trip hasn't been about Europeans, but instead about American attitudes towards Europeans. Most Americans automatically assume that every single European we come across on this trip will be able to speak English. Rarely will an American ever attempt to speak the local language first. Instead they just start speaking English and if someone doesn't understand them they simply get louder and slower with their words. One of my best experiences on this trip so far occurred in the Laundromat in Belgium. We ran into a very nice Belgian who spoke only broken English. While we weren't able to communicate much, he knew enough English to tell us that we were stupid for traveling to a country where we didn't know the language. After thinking about it and observing, I noticed that not only do most Americans not know how to speak European languages they make fun of Europeans for making mistakes in English. It just surprises me how everyone thinks of the United States as the most advanced, Western, and well-educated nation in the world yet very few can actually speak a foreign language. Instead we travel and expect others to learn our languages, adopt our customs and become more like us. Yet we still get mad when Europeans turn their backs on us for not even attempting to learn their language. On top of that we get mad when people don't help us when we are lost but how many of us would be willing and/or able to help a lost tourist who spoke no English back in the United States? All of these experiences just made me think that we should be more grateful for those that can help us instead of mocking and complaining about those that don't.
By Christopher Champney
In all honesty I really did not know what to expect when I landed in Vilnius, Lithuania. My grandmother’s family emigrated from Lithuania back in the mid 1800s from a town somewhere near the city of Kaunaus. Growing up next door to her I was much better acquainted with Lithuanian culture and history than the vast majority of Americans. However what I knew upon arrival did not nearly prepare me for the experience I would have in Vilnius. Our first significant stop was at the old Russian KGB prison. This was truly a moving experience. The brutality suffered by the Lithuanian people at the hands of their Soviet oppressors was overwhelming. Seeing the cells where people were tortured and the room where thousands met their death by firing squad instills an indescribable emotion in one's self.
Another highlight of the trip was the museum of Lithuanian National History. Here I was able to see how my grandmother's family would have lived for generations. I had heard stories from my grandmother of the old country passed down to her. She told me that they had lived as serfs tilling the land of their Russian lord for no pay and confined to their small wooden hovel in a state of virtual slavery. Luckily they managed to raise the money and sneak away aboard a ship to America otherwise I would not be writing this reaction. However to see the clothes, art, tools and hardships they would have used and faced reveled to me just how different their lives were from my own. Even though much of the history discussed dealt with Soviet oppression the hardships suffered by these people under foreign powers was very much the same. While at the museum I was particularly struck by one artifact. This was a sword used by a legendary Lithuanian general who led an army that rode to the rescue of the besieged city of Vienna, Austria centuries ago and saved it from a much larger Turkish army. I can remember my grandmother telling me this story as a child, as her parents must have told her, reminding her of a time when their people where a powerful nation free from oppression by foreign powers. This link with my family's past will leave an indelible mark upon my memory one I will tell my own children one day.
By Natalie Moore- Junior
One thing that I will always remember from this trip is the day we went to the genocide museum in Lithuania. This was formerly a KGB (Russian secret police) jail and the horrible atrocities that took place in this building left me speechless. We saw the rooms where people were held, tortured and then executed just for being Lithuanian. The worst part of the tour was the realization that there were prisoners in this jail during our lifetime and the rest of the world did nothing about it. These people went through a time of persecution that can still be seen in the untrusting character that comes out when they realize that we are foreigners. It bothers me to think that people could be treated this way somewhere else in the world today and we know nothing about it. I think the world has to wake up and realize that we still need to fight for human rights.
By David Matz -Senior
Business Administration – Finance
As a student who has several experiences studying abroad, I have been most impressed by the Communist Party influences that have been left by the Soviet Union and are still in place upon the city of Vilnius. Throughout Vilnius, many of the buildings that we have seen and visited still have signs of Communist influence. For example, the architecture of the Lithuanian Parliament and the sports arena clearly display the plain block architecture that is viewed as quite ugly. Additionally, Russia currently controls a significant influence on the content available on television in Vilnius. Most recently we have seen the EuroNews television network blocked due to the fact that they were discussing the sensitive relations between Russia and the European Union. Due to the fact that Lithuania is relatively a newly established country, many stories and pictures of the rule under communist Soviet Union on Lithuania are displayed in museums that we have visited. The people of Lithuania are very proud of their history yet stories of communist rule are still ever present throughout the city.
By Katie Tabor
Everyone hears about West Europe, what about East Europe? I myself never thought about what happened to countries like Lithuania and Estonia after WWII. At the museum in Vilnius, I final came to realize that Lithuania has never really had freedom. To me, after WWII all the countries were given their freedom back for at least a few years. I did not realize that Russia immediately took over countries. No freedom for over seventy years is a concept that is hard to grasp. People today can still remember what it was like to have been born without freedom. For example, many of the people we have meet in Vilnius remember what it was like to be controlled in every aspect of their lives. They know what it is like to have no power or free will. I have never been oppressed or forced to do anything against my will. To me knowing that the people of Lithuania were not free for so long is a culture shock for me. If I learn nothing else on this trip, I have at least learned more about East Europe than I have ever known.
By Meredith Krause-International Studies: Concentration in Europe
Elon University-Class of 2008
Throughout this course we have been to many different locations, but Lithuania seemed to catch my eye the most in terms of its History. In America we are given our own history as well as that of Europe in our basic history courses, but never have I heard about the Genocide of the Lithuanian people. It came as a complete shock to me when we visited the Genocide Museum here in Vilnius because I was under the impression that the only genocide that had occurred was the Holocaust. I was terribly wrong. During our tour of the museum we were informed of the different methods in which the KGB (Russian Committee for State Security) interrogated, tortured, and killed approximately 1300 Lithuanian people. What shocked me the most about this horrific event is not only how the KGB decided to torture the poor individuals predominately through means of water torture, but how the rest of the world turned their backs to them as they screamed for help. In America it is easy to believe that the rest of the world has no affect on us, but that only fuels the European’s stereotype of us as being ignorant. Ultimately through our visit to Vilnius I have learned how important the protection of human rights is and what can happen when they are taken away. This country has given me a different outlook on Europe and how important it is to step outside of our Western bubble and appreciate what we have been given.
By Whyte Carter -Junior Elementary Education Major
Throughout history groups of people have turned to religion to guide them and give them hope during time of great hardship. After spending some time now in Lithuania, I have found that this trend has not been followed. Lithuanians were originally Pagan and later mixed Paganism with Christianity in the sixteenth century. Under the severe oppression of Russian Communist rule, all religion was squashed. The many magnificent churches and cathedrals found in Vilnius were transformed into grain storage sheds and prisons. I was surprised to learn that when the Communist regime fell 17 years ago, the Lithuanian people did not scramble to reestablish their religious practices and buildings. Like most of Europe, Lithuania is a very secular country, leaving most churches empty on the weekends. I for one thought that Lithuania would have been eager to celebrate religion, especially after all of the suffering they have endured. However, while the Russian Orthodox cathedrals and Catholic churches still stand firm (although some are undergoing reconstruction), Lithuanian religiosity seems to have crumbled.
By Alex Coffman, Sophomore, Business Management major
For most, Lithuania is a country that can’t be pointed out on a map. The country’s history is one that is rarely heard about. There aren’t chapters written about it in history books and few professors even know its significance. Even membership to the European Union in 2004 hasn’t really developed Lithuania’s importance for most. For our class, Lithuania has been a visit full of a rich history, one that doesn’t go very far back. Our professor, Betty Morgan, is well aware of Lithuanian’s position in this world and the struggle it has gone through for most of it’s time. What most people don’t realize is that Lithuania is a country whose longest run of independence was 24 years. Now, after becoming free from Soviet rule, they are still 7 years from breaking their current independence record. Our class has also learned about an almost completely un-talked about genocide that ended in our lifetime. Even with their freedom, there is a constant fear of a Russian eye looking down on this country. We call it history, but really it is the present. This newly independent nation seems to be still searching for some of their independence.
By Amanda Zamzes-Senior
Public Administration/Political Science
Many of the students arrived in Vilnius excited to see what a former Soviet Union nation would look like almost two decades after the Soviets had been removed. I, however, arrived ill and could not wait for time to rest. After spending some time in the hotel resting, a trip to the Baltic-American Clinic was in order. While probably not to my parents enjoyment, this was one of the most enlightening experiences. After filling out the appropriate forms I tried to explain to the nurse what was wrong. Words like "gross" and "yucky" are not words that work to describe anything in Lithuania. It was particularly nerve wracking when the nurse was trying to stick me for an IV while talking to the doctor in Lithuanian. I finally understood what it would be like to come to America and not be able to speak English. The only difference is that in Europe many people speak English and many of the menus are also written in English. This appears odd to me because the United States does not have a national language so there is no reason why other languages should not be common place whereas a country such as Lithuania has it's own national language and in addition many people speak English.
*For all those nervous parents out there everything is fine and I'm on the mend.
By Kourtney Cloak
During our first meeting for the European Union study abroad trip, I was skeptical of the course. While my friends were going to come back with tans from Australia and Peru, I was going to cloudy, rainy, cold countries in Europe. Our professor even warned us about the little sun we would see and the depressing weather we would surely experience. While the trip began with me being groggy, tired from the plane, and ready for the bed waiting for me back at the hotel, once adjusted to the time zone I was ready to conquer Europe with my classmates. After having already traveled to European countries that attract the most tourists, such as Paris and London, I was anxious when we arrived in Lithuania. Most of my friends laughed when I told them I was traveling to such a remote and unknown country. However, I quickly discovered that most students who did not sign up for the EU study abroad trip were missing out on a great opportunity Elon offered. My first impression of Lithuania was it was cold and bleak. The buildings were architecturally unappealing and no one wanted to help me figure out anything in English. After traveling the city and exploring it on my own, I learned a lot more than I previously thought I would. I feel like this city is forgotten and discarded as an Eastern European city with not a lot to offer. However, Lithuania has so much history that is was never mentioned in Western European history. After visiting the Lithuanian National Museum, the old KGB jail, and the Lithuanian Parliament, I realized how much history this country has which goes unnoticed. I was embarrassed at my ignorance of this country's struggles and battles that lasted well into my lifetime. I feel like this country is so under-rated and forgotten. Western civilization needs to pay more attention to Lithuania and the battles these people are still fighting to gain control of their country.
By Halley Spong-Sophomore-Corporate Communications
Imagine living in a country that has been independent for almost 50 years total. Since World War II the Soviet Union has occupied the small country of Lithuania causing a massive genocide in which thousands of citizens were either executed or sent to concentration camps in other countries. In 1991 the Russians finally left, allowing the Lithuanians to move on with their lives. However in reality the Russians never really left.
Thursday morning during our class session Dr. Morgan informed us that on Wednesday a TV channel was turned to English which broadcasted an event dealing with the United Kingdom and Russia. Although Lithuania is supposed to be independent the Russians exercised their power and turned the station off. The station wasn't turned off because it was in English, but because it had to do with Russia being viewed negatively. The Russians didn't want the Lithuanians to see what was going on so they made sure the broadcast couldn't be viewed.
This incident has only made it more clear to us that the Russians aren't willing to give up what they believe is theirs. The idea that Russia still holds so much power over Lithuania also makes us wonder if they would take over the country again. This possibility of another occupation isn't far from people’s minds however hopefully this time the possibility won't be ignored.
By Kristopher Mannen, Junior, Engineering and Physics Major.
We have been in Lithuania now for 4 days and this experience has been much different from the rest of the trip. Having started in Western European countries, the sudden switch to the Lithuanian way of life came as a bit of a shock. The amount of pain and suffering this country has gone through and the incredible fight against oppression is unimaginable. What is most upsetting to me is that while I live in the United States where my country is supposed to be the biggest super power in the world, I can honestly say that until now I have heard nothing of the events that took place in Lithuania. To me, it seems as if this was another “Rwanda” where our country knew of the problems but didn’t want to recognize them. Despite the oppression, Lithuania has come a long way. For the most part, the city has been structurally rebuilt and is in fairly good condition. Technology is just as up-to-date, if not better than most places in the United States and they are extremely modernized. The people, however, appear to be in a somewhat depressed state, and rightfully so. They don’t seem to be as friendly and welcoming as has been the case in most of the Western European countries that we’ve visited. All put aside though, I have had a wonderful time in Lithuania, learning both about their past and experiencing their culture, and I am looking forward to the final few days here.
By Christina Peterson-class of 2010-International Studies/French Major, Business minor
Thus far, Lithuania has been a nation that has opened many closed doors, even invisible doors, for me. This is a country that I knew absolutely nothing about before setting out on this journey to discover the EU.
Lithuania has only been an independent country for 17 consecutive years. In this time, the people as a whole have made significant strides in reestablishing themselves after Soviet occupation. Though they suffered many hardships, they have begun to break away from foreign rule and become an independent nation.
While considering Lithuania’s new sovereignty, I began to reflect on the founding of our own nation. In comparison, the United States went through many wars over 50 years (the Revolutionary War, the War of 1812, the Civil War) before they officially became a recognized nation. Lithuania, on the other hand, has only had 17 years of independence and has already grown significantly by creating and maintaining permanent stores and marketplaces. The rebound of Lithuania after Soviet occupation has been incredible and is without a doubt something to admire. In these 17 years, efficient public transportation and agricultural production have also been formed. In addition, Lithuania became a member of the European Union in 2004. Even the United States could not fulfill all of the economic requirements to be part of the EU.
Currently, I truly believe that the Lithuanian people have a real sense of who they are and what they want to become. This could not be more rare for such a young nation. They are making positive strides and connections not only economically but politically as well. It might take a few more generations to realize the full capabilities of the Baltic States such as Lithuania, but I have full confidence that if they continue to follow the path they are on they will achieve great success.
By Katelin Clark-Sophomore-Broadcast Communications
With a plethora of books and maps in my suitcase, I approached the EU trip confident that I was completely prepared and aware of what I was about to explore. However, my experiences in Lithuania slapped me with a harsh reality that I did not expect. From my basic research, I could easily tell you that Lithuania is a country of about 3 million people and that the Soviets and Germans fought for it in WWII, but this doesn’t even begin to explain what has happened and is continuing to happen underneath the surface. What I have learned in my past four days here goes way deeper than I could have ever imagined.
Our class trip to the Genocide Museum was something I will never forget. Taking an extensive tour of the rooms in which many Lithuanians were tortured (just years before by the Soviets) was enough to give me the permanent chills. However, what is incredibly moving and inspirational to me is how much the country has developed and has built a promising future that once seemed unimaginable.
Just sitting at the bus stop, I have watched many elderly people pass by, and thought about all of the violence they must have been through; how they have surely lost a friend or loved one; how they have had to fight hard for independence. But, the fact that life goes on for them, and that they can still laugh and enjoy life, gives me hope for the future of the country, and makes me appreciate all I have.
By John Chiaramonti-Senior-Biology Major
After spending three days in Vilnius, Lithuania I have noticed many differences between Vilnius and the other European Union countries. One day we had access to Euronews, which was a new network that described European Union policies and markets. When this network ran the story of the dispute of England versus Russia, within 12 hours, the network was shut down and the station in red writing said, the show has been cancelled. I thought that Lithuania was an independent country, but after seeing how Russia has control over the Baltic States, I have come to understand that Russia still has control over the smaller European Union countries. I soon learned that Lithuania will soon lose their energy independence and have to rely on Russia for energy.
By Jeff Benjamin-Junior, Business Major
Lithuania is a country that has been free for about 30 of the past 200 years. The 170 other years Lithuania has been dominated and suppressed by the Polish, Germans, or Soviets. This would lead you to believe the country would be backwards and have low standards of living. I've been surprised at how much the country has caught up in the past 17 years in which it has been a free country. It is hard to recognize any sign the soviets were here. They occupied the country from the end of World War II, 1945, to the fall of the Soviet Union, 1991.
Lithuania has a population of about 3.5 million (301 M. in US) and a GDP of $15,300 (US $43,800). Even with the drastically different statistics between the US and Lithuania, the two statistics Lithuania doesn't seem that peculiar to an American.. There are high end stores that play American music, American TV shows, nice restaurants, and of course a McDonalds within one block of our hotel. Of course there are poorer areas of the city, but in all it seems familiar to small US cities. Some of the visible differences include fewer skyscrapers and a population that is taller and blonder than the US (Lithuania loves its basketball team and I'm told has the highest % of blondes in the world). Lithuania seems to have done well moving from a small soviet satellite nation to a democratic one. Certainly Lithuania is experiencing small bumps on the road to being a prosperous democratic nation, but I'm surprised at how far it has come in the past 17 years and how much we have learned in the past 12 days.
By Michael Monkelien
One of the most important things I have learned so far is the relationship between Lithuania, the European Union, and Russia. After being held by Russia for so long going through prosecution, Lithuania is about to be dependent on them once again. Very soon Lithuania’s last power plant will be closed down and they will be very dependent on Russia for all energy sources. I feel like the European Union, being the next big authority should be responsible in looking after its states. I don’t think that this little country should have to depend on the country that put it through so much to supply them with the energy it needs to survive. This would just be giving control back to Russia. The EU should take it upon them to make it their goal to supply their states with the power and other resources needed. They should not let a member state be so dependent on another country, especially if it just won freedom from that country. I don’t think that the EU is watching its borders very closely and that if they are not careful, there is a possibility Russia might step in again, in one way or another.
By Meghan Toomey-Senior-Majors: Political Science/Public Administration
Minors: Business Administration/International Studies
Communication through words, body movements or hand movements, it is something that is part of everyday life. How do you decide who you communicate with or how you communicate with them? In the United States, communication, for the most part, is articulated between those who speak the same language. Americans hesitate to communicate with those who do not speak English. Every month there is a bill on the house or senate floor trying to make English the United State’s primary language instead of encouraging Americans to learn other languages. It must be so hard for foreigners who do not speak English to visit because Americans are not welcoming to non-English speakers nor do most take the time to use other forms of communication to interact. We chose not to communicate.
When traveling the EU, most Europeans speak two, three languages, and if English does not happen to be one, they are usually more then happy to have you point things out. Speaking multiple languages is usually encouraged and many times necessary for everyday life. In Lithuania, there seems to be less English speakers then other counties we have visited thus far in the EU. Most Lithuanians speak their own language as well as Russian because of the strong Russian influence in the country. Like other EU countries, if they do not understand what is being articulated, most try and understand using other forms of communication. We have run into some cases where we have run into Lithuanians who are somewhat timid about speaking with us, but it is becoming more and more clear why as we learn about there history of foreign influence. However it will make me think twice the next time I run into someone who does not speak my language.
Stopped in to a church I passed along the way…
(Vilnius, Saturday) It was a dark and stormy morning. After that lead, you know this posting has to get better. But it really was dark, cold and wet…the worst weather yet on this study abroad. The students had a 1 pm test so that left me the morning free. I decided to walk the few blocks to one of the shopping districts. I only got halfway there before the biting wind made the cold rain sting as it hit my face and I sought refuge in the nearest open building, the big, beautiful Orthodox church (see picture posted a few days ago). The building was packed. It was the day the Orthodox celebrate Epiphany, commemorating the baptism of Jesus in the River Jordan. There were young people, families with little children and old people who never gave up their faith despite having lived most of their lives in a country where the Soviets allowed only one religion—the worship of Communism—and where churches were turned into surplus furniture storage or animal barns. You did not need to be familiar with the language or the customs to be moved by this sight and this ceremony. I headed back into the cold and wet, warmed by the notion that the freedom and faith that coalesced in that room were things we take for granted but the folks here embrace.
Back at the hotel, the students were still working on their tests. They finished and all appear to have survived the experience. They had the rest of the day free and headed out to see the sites, to shop for themselves and others, and to grab some fine Lithuanian food.
Next: students get their turn.
Back at the hotel, the students were still working on their tests. They finished and all appear to have survived the experience. They had the rest of the day free and headed out to see the sites, to shop for themselves and others, and to grab some fine Lithuanian food.
Next: students get their turn.
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