(Vilnius, Thursday, Friday) Another grey day in Vilnius. And another great day where the weather didn’t matter. We started the day by walking to the Lithuanian Parliament where our young guide, who spoke excellent English, was a friend of Dr. Morgan and a fellow Fulbright scholar. She showed us everywhere around the buildings including where the Soviet puppet legislature sat and the new chamber where the independent legislature sits. Most sobering is the still preserved piece of glass in the front of the building where a bullet hole marks the last Soviet attempt to keep Lithuania under Soviet control. We got to go on the floor of the windowless, old Parliament with students taking turns at the podium until Dr. Morgan took her rightful place in the leadership position with the rest of us dutifully looking toward her for guidance (see picture).
The halls of the Parliament are lined with pictures of famous visitors. Richard Nixon, then the former president, was the first US leader to visit free Lithuania. George W. Bush is the only sitting US President to visit here. They love him here because he promised that the US would never let Lithuania be taken over by another country. And we saw the first leader of the modern, free Lithuania. A man by the name of Landsbergis. I had to get a picture in front of his portrait.
The new Parliament is bright, with plenty of natural light. It exudes an air of transparency and that is no accident. We got to watch a session and a vote…and the students were even in a cut-away shot from the session on the evening news. It was exciting to see this young democracy in action.
That evening was our night at the opera. The opera house is across the street from the hotel and it is a beautiful structure. Built about 30 years ago under Soviet rule, it has glass on three sides with numerous chandeliers lit up. It is a warm and inviting place from the street where one gets a sense of high culture. Everyone dresses well and arrives early for the opera. It is a place to see and be seen. The object is to get there early enough to grab a seat at one of the many bars or tables in the lounge area. Before the show patrons sip Champagne, cognac, espresso, cappuccino, fruit juice or multi-colored fruit concoctions. And what would those drinks be without a great slice of cream filled cake or fruit or the very pretty and colorful bowl of what appears to be Jell-O. After this classy start, it’s time to watch Salome.
Salome is based on a story about John the Baptist, written by a French playwright and interpreted by Oscar Wilde in the late 1800s and adapted as an opera by Richard Strauss. It’s your basic love story with hints of incest, necrophilia and literally losing one’s head. Hey, it’s opera, what do you expect? Most of the students had never seen an opera and had no idea about what they would see. Event those of us who had been to an opera before did not expect to see this interpretation.
There was nothing classic about this staging as was obvious from the start when the performance opens with a half-dozen contemporary soldiers in pink camouflage and Salome dressed in a black trench coat looking like a Hollywood interpretation of a 1940s spy. Then it got weird. The King Herod character was portrayed as an old communist Apparatchik, decked out in his commander’s uniform complete with sash. A communist party red star hung over the stage. There were elites sipping champagne…and peasants with meager rations. And there was a waiter (or bellhop or something). Instead of Salome losing clothing during the dance of the seven veils, the old, evil commie was stripped down to his boxers. But when the head came on stage, it was faithful to the original. All this while the opera was sung in German…with Lithuanian translation flashing above the stage. Not helpful for most of us in interpreting what was going on. But the allegory about the bankrupt communist ideology and how it cannot survive needed no words to interpret.
Friday was one of those days when a lot of little things tried to conspire to keep us from doing what we planned. The idea was to go to the American Center at the US Embassy to watch a Hungarian movie called “Szabadság, szerelem” or “Children of Glory” in English. It is in the European format (PAL) so we needed to watch it there. It took some time for them to get the equipment in place and, once we started watching the film, the power went out twice. Still, we managed to get through the film. It is a fascinating and well-produced love story set against the Hungarian Revolt of 1956 and the Hungarian Water Polo Team victory against the Russians at the 1956 Melbourne Olympics—considered the bloodiest water polo contest ever. It has English subtitles that are very easy to follow. The film is only available in European format and does not appear to be on sale in the US.
In late afternoon we met with a Lithuanian-American who told students how her family escaped the Soviets around 1940…by fleeing to Nazi Germany. It was hard to imagine those kinds of choices or the depravation and tragedy she and her family suffered. She grew up in the United States, became a successful attorney, and now she works on getting Lithuania further on the road to democracy and economic parity with the world. She and her husband split their time between Lithuania and the United States.
The evening was spent at the philharmonic listening to a Russian violinist child prodigy. He was a master who played with tremendous technical procession as well as great feeling. It is remarkable to see complex classical pieces played so well and without any reference to a printed musical score. Some of our students were seeing this type of orchestra for the first time. The conductor was a short Estonian with glasses, wearing a sport coat with collar popped up. Dr. Morgan said he looked like one of SNL’s Mike Myer’s characters. Everyone seemed to have an enjoyable evening.
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Friday, January 18, 2008
Baltic Dreamin’ on Such a Winter's Day
(Vilnius, Tuesday, Wednesday) OK…maybe the title is a bit of a stretch but it has been cold and wintry since we got here although no snow. Still, it has been a bit of an assault on the thin Carolina blood of many of us. Fortunately, Dr. Morgan warned everyone that it would be cold so we are all well prepared.
Tuesday had an emotionally draining start. We walked about 15 minutes to our hotel to this unassuming, large building facing the main street. This was the former headquarters of the KGB (and the Nazis for a time during the war). The first thing Dr. Morgan pointed out to us were the pock-marks on the building side. That’s where the KGB would shoot Lithuanians and leave their bodies on the sidewalk in the hopes of catching a family member claiming the body. The walk inside the facility was equally grim. All around the building there are plagues with names and dates of birth and death. The names are of people who went into KGB headquarters but never came out. Many were younger than our students. Inside is equally bleak. Tiny 3x3 cells where a half-dozen prisoners were kept for interrogation. Slightly bigger cells where four or more prisoners were kept for months or longer with no heat, no toilet and concrete walls and floors; Torture chambers where prisoners were beaten, shocked, given psychotropic drugs and had unspeakable things done to them. But torture was officially banned by the government (isn’t it always?) so, instead of torture, the KGB could use a “means of physical influence” or “active interrogation.” It is amazing how governments will torture the language to try to convince the world that they are not torturing people.
And then there was the secret room. The room where some prisoners were taken and promised deportation to work camps only to be shot. It is a small, concrete room with a sloped floor so that blood would flow down a drain. A water pipe on one end of the floor helped keep the blood flowing, making it clean for the next killing. Many of our students stood on the spot where those their age stood a generation or two ago and had bullets callously fired into them by Soviets who were “just doing their jobs.” Behind where our students stood were the bullet holes that defined that Soviet era of repression here in Lithuania. Some of those killed were dissidents trying to free Lithuania from Soviet tyranny; Some were lawyers or professors—enemies of the state; and some were just ratted out by neighbors who thought they could gain some advantage—or save their own skin—by turning in their friends. For the world, the second war ended in 1945. For Lithuania, the war didn’t end until the Soviets left in 1990. Some here refer to those 45 years as the “war after war.” We all walked away from the KGB horror house shaken…and changed.
The afternoon was a pleasant change of pace as well as a real treat. We all took the long walk up the hill to the US Embassy. Like US Embassies everywhere in the world, this was a heavily fortified and ugly structure. We waited in the cold for up to 30-minutes to clear security but it was well worth it. While some groups get to meet with public affairs officers or low level officials—all of whom are interesting and informative—our group got to meet with the US Ambassador to Lithuania, John Cloud. Dr. Morgan has known Ambassador Cloud for a while and, despite a very busy schedule, he agreed to talk with us for almost one hour. It was a far ranging and candid discussion with questions about Lithuania, the EU and the role of the United States in the changing world landscape as well as questions about the diplomatic life and how to raise children while being posted all around the world. It was an honor for us to meet the man who speaks for our country here in Lithuania.
Tuesday night we were all free to discover the city. Wednesday was a day for independent study allowing students to discover whatever they wanted. For me, the day was best summed up by my colleague, Dr. Anthony Hatcher, who suggested there should be a song: "I Got My Virus in Vilnius." A catchy tune or, more accurately, a catching tune. Dr. Morgan was sick first, then one of our students, then me on Wednesday. Fortunately, it has been that extremely un-rare and inevitable illness known as “the sniffles” (or sometimes the variation known as “the crude”). This is why we all brought plenty of Dayquil and Nyquil (or the cheaper generics) so it hasn’t slowed us down any. Everyone will catch a cold sometime during this trip…. it’s almost guaranteed. And nothing to worry about.
Most of those who were feeling well on Wednesday went to a nearby castle and spent the day exploring that. A few stayed in town and went to the mall and explored Vilnius. All returned safe and sound.
Tuesday had an emotionally draining start. We walked about 15 minutes to our hotel to this unassuming, large building facing the main street. This was the former headquarters of the KGB (and the Nazis for a time during the war). The first thing Dr. Morgan pointed out to us were the pock-marks on the building side. That’s where the KGB would shoot Lithuanians and leave their bodies on the sidewalk in the hopes of catching a family member claiming the body. The walk inside the facility was equally grim. All around the building there are plagues with names and dates of birth and death. The names are of people who went into KGB headquarters but never came out. Many were younger than our students. Inside is equally bleak. Tiny 3x3 cells where a half-dozen prisoners were kept for interrogation. Slightly bigger cells where four or more prisoners were kept for months or longer with no heat, no toilet and concrete walls and floors; Torture chambers where prisoners were beaten, shocked, given psychotropic drugs and had unspeakable things done to them. But torture was officially banned by the government (isn’t it always?) so, instead of torture, the KGB could use a “means of physical influence” or “active interrogation.” It is amazing how governments will torture the language to try to convince the world that they are not torturing people.
And then there was the secret room. The room where some prisoners were taken and promised deportation to work camps only to be shot. It is a small, concrete room with a sloped floor so that blood would flow down a drain. A water pipe on one end of the floor helped keep the blood flowing, making it clean for the next killing. Many of our students stood on the spot where those their age stood a generation or two ago and had bullets callously fired into them by Soviets who were “just doing their jobs.” Behind where our students stood were the bullet holes that defined that Soviet era of repression here in Lithuania. Some of those killed were dissidents trying to free Lithuania from Soviet tyranny; Some were lawyers or professors—enemies of the state; and some were just ratted out by neighbors who thought they could gain some advantage—or save their own skin—by turning in their friends. For the world, the second war ended in 1945. For Lithuania, the war didn’t end until the Soviets left in 1990. Some here refer to those 45 years as the “war after war.” We all walked away from the KGB horror house shaken…and changed.
The afternoon was a pleasant change of pace as well as a real treat. We all took the long walk up the hill to the US Embassy. Like US Embassies everywhere in the world, this was a heavily fortified and ugly structure. We waited in the cold for up to 30-minutes to clear security but it was well worth it. While some groups get to meet with public affairs officers or low level officials—all of whom are interesting and informative—our group got to meet with the US Ambassador to Lithuania, John Cloud. Dr. Morgan has known Ambassador Cloud for a while and, despite a very busy schedule, he agreed to talk with us for almost one hour. It was a far ranging and candid discussion with questions about Lithuania, the EU and the role of the United States in the changing world landscape as well as questions about the diplomatic life and how to raise children while being posted all around the world. It was an honor for us to meet the man who speaks for our country here in Lithuania.
Tuesday night we were all free to discover the city. Wednesday was a day for independent study allowing students to discover whatever they wanted. For me, the day was best summed up by my colleague, Dr. Anthony Hatcher, who suggested there should be a song: "I Got My Virus in Vilnius." A catchy tune or, more accurately, a catching tune. Dr. Morgan was sick first, then one of our students, then me on Wednesday. Fortunately, it has been that extremely un-rare and inevitable illness known as “the sniffles” (or sometimes the variation known as “the crude”). This is why we all brought plenty of Dayquil and Nyquil (or the cheaper generics) so it hasn’t slowed us down any. Everyone will catch a cold sometime during this trip…. it’s almost guaranteed. And nothing to worry about.
Most of those who were feeling well on Wednesday went to a nearby castle and spent the day exploring that. A few stayed in town and went to the mall and explored Vilnius. All returned safe and sound.
Monday, January 14, 2008
There are no pop culture references for Lithuania
These entries often have a film or music reference (many from the 60s or 70s) as the title. But try to come up with something for Lithuania. Go ahead. Try. I’ll wait. Give up? There is no “April In Paris” or “Meet Me in St. Louis” written about cities here (“Moon over Vilnius”? probably not). That’s what promises to make this stop so interesting. Most of us don’t spend any time thinking about Lithuania. We may go to Belgium for chocolates, Paris for the Eiffel Tower, London for Big Ben, but why come to Vilnius? What is here and why does it matter? That is what we will be exploring for the next week. But first, a look back at the last few days.
The students all had a great time in Amsterdam and Paris and all made it back to Brussels safe and sound. The Paris crowd saw every major site in the course of just a few hours and managed dinner, too. It sounded exhausting. Most of the Amsterdam folks got to see the Ann Frank house and one of the art museums. The folks who stayed over in Amsterdam had their return train break down but, despite that, they still made it back in time for Dr. Morgan’s one pm class.
Sunday, our last day in Brussels was spent in class in the early afternoon followed by a visit to an exhibition on the 50th anniversary of the European Union. Then it was back to the hotel for a class on Lithuania and the EU before dinner on our own. Morning departure would come very early.
Everyone left the hotel in Brussels before 6 am to head to the Central Railroad Station for the train to the airport. At the station, we all dragged our luggage down two flights of stairs to track three knowing we would make the train coming in five minutes. Then came the announcement: the train has been changed to track six. We rushed back up the stairs and then dragged our luggage back down the stairs to track six…only to watch our train pull away. A bad start to a good day. The next train came in 20 minutes and we made it to the airport in plenty of time for coffee and a croissant. We sailed through check-in, immigration and security and then got our big treat: except for one other passenger, we were the only people on the 737 Air Baltic flight non-stop to Vilnius. Everyone got his or her own row of three seats to stretch out on and grab a little more sleep. Arrival in Vilnius was easy, taxis to the hotel a breeze and we checked in and regrouped in half an hour for a long walk through Vilnius. We ate lunch, saw the major sites, learned our way around town and went home exhausted. We were on our own for dinner and everyone is so tired after this day that a good sleep is practically guaranteed. Tomorrow: the KGB museum and meeting with the ambassador.
The students all had a great time in Amsterdam and Paris and all made it back to Brussels safe and sound. The Paris crowd saw every major site in the course of just a few hours and managed dinner, too. It sounded exhausting. Most of the Amsterdam folks got to see the Ann Frank house and one of the art museums. The folks who stayed over in Amsterdam had their return train break down but, despite that, they still made it back in time for Dr. Morgan’s one pm class.
Sunday, our last day in Brussels was spent in class in the early afternoon followed by a visit to an exhibition on the 50th anniversary of the European Union. Then it was back to the hotel for a class on Lithuania and the EU before dinner on our own. Morning departure would come very early.
Everyone left the hotel in Brussels before 6 am to head to the Central Railroad Station for the train to the airport. At the station, we all dragged our luggage down two flights of stairs to track three knowing we would make the train coming in five minutes. Then came the announcement: the train has been changed to track six. We rushed back up the stairs and then dragged our luggage back down the stairs to track six…only to watch our train pull away. A bad start to a good day. The next train came in 20 minutes and we made it to the airport in plenty of time for coffee and a croissant. We sailed through check-in, immigration and security and then got our big treat: except for one other passenger, we were the only people on the 737 Air Baltic flight non-stop to Vilnius. Everyone got his or her own row of three seats to stretch out on and grab a little more sleep. Arrival in Vilnius was easy, taxis to the hotel a breeze and we checked in and regrouped in half an hour for a long walk through Vilnius. We ate lunch, saw the major sites, learned our way around town and went home exhausted. We were on our own for dinner and everyone is so tired after this day that a good sleep is practically guaranteed. Tomorrow: the KGB museum and meeting with the ambassador.
Elon Winter Term in the 21st Century
We talk a lot about globalization. We talk about Tom Friedman’s theory that the world is flat. But Winter Term at Elon is better than any theory about our shrinking world. Yes, we have gone to five countries in a little more than one week. Other Elon study abroad trips are working at a similar pace. And yes, we see The Gap and other American chains in every city and we can see bad American television dubbed into a variety of tongues. But it is truly an Elon Winter Term in the 21st Century when the best—and free—Internet connection is not in Western Europe but in the east. And when the first message received via email in this former third world country once dominated by the Soviet Union comes from a student on another study abroad who is traveling through China, Singapore and Australia. Despite vast distance and unfathomable time zones, we can keep in touch in real time. The world doesn’t get much flatter than that.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
