You, Who Are on the Road…

We left with 20 students and came home with 20 students. That is one measure of success (albeit a very low standard). Dr. Morgan held the students to a much higher standard during this course including asking them why their colleagues should choose the European Union study abroad course over all the other winter term possibilities. In their own words, here is what the students said:

Ryan Andres, junior, Biology
The European Union: The State of Europe study abroad program gives you the ability to study, in situ, the transformation of Europe from a war-ravaged, hostile, and tense region into an economically-integrated, politically-cooperative constituency capable of standing as a counterweight to American hegemony. You will learn about how Europe used the creation of a single market and economic integration to bury centuries of distrust, destruction, and detestation. Next, you will see how this economic bedrock lead to the pooling of sovereignty and establishment of institutions that allows Europe to act as one in matters relating to foreign policy, internal markets, immigration, and civil rights. While most winter programs provide you the ability to study an engaging topic in a diverse locale, what separates this course is the ability for independent learning. In addition to a sufficient amount of organized lecture and class activities, there is ample time to travel on your own and explore what interests you most. With this freedom comes invaluable experience in traveling, communicating, and surviving in a foreign country where English is not the predominant language. This beneficial deficiency of structure fosters growth and learning in areas outside of traditional academics. It is this knowledge which I believe may be the most valuable going forward in my life and separated this course from my other experiential learning experiences at Elon.


Christopher Swartz
The EU: State of the European Union course is perhaps one of the most cohesive and intensive classes that Elon has to offer over winter term. Not only does the class allow for students to access each of the major institutions of the EU and deal first hand with the people that make these institutions work, but students also have the ability to talk to a wide range of ambassadors and delegates to the EU and its constituent bodies. And while at first this may seem to be a politically isolated trip, one is quick to realize the far reaching affects of the EU in the social and economic fields across the world. Many people have spoken about the new international community and the role of globalization, but this trip is perhaps the best way to learn about our quickly shrinking world, and the effects this has on our own country and the rest of the countries also. And it doesn’t hurt that students are immersed in some of the most lush and opulent cities and environments that Europe has to offer.


Jamie Lee DeVantier, sophomore, Broadcast Communications
I believe that studying abroad in the European Union has provided me with knowledge that I would have never obtained while at the University. While most students study for three weeks in Elon, I was given the opportunity to travel to seven different countries in east and west Europe. I was privileged to see firsthand how a portion of the 27 countries in the European Union work together as one. It was very interesting to see how these countries are in many different stages. For instance, while Lithuania and Hungary are not yet ready to convert their currency to the Euro; countries like Germany and France have already adopted the Euro. I loved being able to experience seven completely different cultures without having to deal with border control within close proximity. Furthermore it was beneficial and inspiring to see how these 27 countries work together as a group under the rule of law, with respect of human rights, democracy, and common principles. With all of the war in the World today it is nice to see that a portion of us can work together and build a strong economy. Clearly students that stayed at Elon or went to study abroad in other programs would never have been able to experience so much in so little time.


Natalie Moore
The European Union trip was unlike anything I have ever experienced and it has offered me new perspectives on the world. It exposed me to diverse cultures and people with dramatically different experiences than mine. This course opened my eyes to a world of politics and history that I had never known. I had the opportunity to both experience the history of these countries as well as meeting people who are currently making history. The theories behind the development of the European Union taught me that the best way to bring peace to our world is to bring countries together with a common foundation of economics and history. How many people can say that they visited seven countries, spent time with someone who helped thwart a Russian invasion and met two U.S. ambassadors in less than a month?


Alexandra Coffman
The European Union wasn’t even on my radar before this course began. Three and a half weeks later, I am more informed about the EU, its structure, development, and how it works as a whole along with some history of EU member states that seems to have been lost in American history books. The information I have learned through my European travels certainly did not get left in Europe. This course, most importantly, taught me the direct effect that the European Union and its 27 member states have on the United States and other countries abroad. While we are all separate entities, we are also all connected. The US Ambassador to Lithuania John Cloud for example, talked about Lithuania’s involvement in Iraq and Afghanistan, directly supporting the United States’ efforts there. The European Union-State of Europe Winter Term course has taught me the important of international policy and the effects this growing entity will have on our country. Being a part of the European Union gives member states a way to be directly involved with the United States in areas such as foreign policy and security. Ways that are seemingly eliminating the Atlantic Ocean border which is keeping us apart.


Kris Mannen
Before I left for the European Union I was not really sure what I was getting myself into, what to expect to gain from the course, or if it was going to be worthwhile to me. Now having spent those 24 days in several of the European Union countries, all of my questions have been answered. I could not be more satisfied with my experience on this course. I learned more in the last three weeks then I could have imagined. I am completely stunned by the amount of knowledge that I gained, that I was not informed of in high school, concerning the occupation and struggle the eastern European countries lived through, such as Lithuania and Hungary. I feel that the information presented on this course is very important for every American to know. The European Union has a much larger effect on our country and our economy than most people realize and it is important that we understand what these effects are and what causes them. The European Union course does an amazing job of explaining this.


Whyte Carter
While I could have chosen a Winter Term study abroad program which would have left me with a great tan, rather than facing much colder and damper conditions, I took the European Union course and would enthusiastically recommend it to any Elon student. Meeting U.S. ambassadors, traveling to seven different countries and learning about the hidden history of the Eastern Bloc that you never read in textbooks were just a few of the once in a lifetime opportunities and experiences of this course. For those students interested in working in public service, foreign or domestic, the E.U. provides great interactions with men and women doing just that. Thanks to Dr. Betty Morgan’s numerous personal connections, students learn about the growing strength of the European Union’s influence in the world’s economy, politics and trade. The time I spent among different cultures, studying their histories, marveling at their food and, most importantly, getting such a unique insight into the European Union, made this program much more than just a sight-seeing “trip”.


Michael Monkelien
Many people take study abroad trips to learn about other countries, how people live, and experience the culture. The European Union study abroad trip is so much more than that. The professor has so many contacts and so much interest in this course, that by taking it, you will learn so much more than anyone initially thinks. Not only this, but the course opens up many opportunities for the future. Almost every place we visited someone was offering out internships and jobs for the future. I wish I would have taken the course earlier in my college years so I had a chance to follow through with one of these internships. If you want to do more than just experience Europe and open your eyes to the past and your future, this is the course for you.


Amanda Zamzes, Senior, Public Administration/Political Science
As students at Elon University we have the wonderful opportunity to travel to many exciting places across the world during the winter term study abroad program. Courses include everywhere from Ireland to Barbados to Ghana. However, the EU: the State of Europe course is one which should not be overlooked. The EU course cannot offer fun in the sun, but can offer unprecedented access to some of the most interesting government officials from around Europe. While on this course students get a look into the inner workings of the European Union while being offered chances to meet with United States Ambassadors in countries such as Lithuania and cities such as Vienna. The EU: the State of Europe course is intensive, but students are also allowed free time in which to explore Europe in the way that they see fit. In addition to learning about the European Union and meeting with interesting professionals abroad students learn what it means to be a true traveler. So the question is not why go on the EU: the State of Europe course, but instead why not?


Jeff Benjamin, junior, Business Major
One of the main objectives of the European Union study abroad course is the concept of Cultural Awareness. As Americans we often forget that anything ever happens outside our country; we are often isolated from the world. The common phrase of an “Elon Bubble” demonstrates our isolation as students not only to the world, but also to our nation. Many of those reading this probably do not have a strong grasp on the relevance of the European Union (EU), or its goals and how the EU affects the United States. As the world is increasingly becoming more interconnected, Americans should no longer be ignorant of global political and economic forces. We should strive to become more culturally aware of those around us. As part of the EU trip we experienced 7 countries and dozens of different cultures in only 24 days. This is an excellent first step in building a strong and culturally aware global perspective.


Katie Tabor, sophomore, Accounting major
One hears about the European Union but does one actually understand what it is and how powerful it is becoming? Before going on this trip I was one of those people. To me, the European Union was just another temporary system in Europe. Not until I started the course and was over in Europe did I realize that the EU is here to stay. Even after all the years of stability, the leaders of the EU are careful about how they approach each member state and what laws are passed. The leaders always make sure that all the treaties are upheld within the member states and the Union as a whole. Before the course, I never realized that a new form of superpower could be on the rise. Everyone going out into the world needs to realize that not all the power lies in weapons; diplomacy is the new power of the future. Without this course I would never have realized how much power Europe has and how the United State needs to start reviewing EU policies.


Kourtney Cloak, Sophomore
Attending a university with numerous study abroad programs provides life-changing opportunities. Deciding which course to enroll in is the difficult part. As a sophomore, I did not receive my first choice of the programs traveling to places such as Australia and the Pacific Rim. Upset and disappointed, I chose the European Union course on my parents’ suggestion. While I was barely anxious for the course initially, reflecting on my studies now I could not have asked for a more influential or informative experience. Traveling to seven countries throughout the month, I was granted the amazing opportunity to explore Eastern Europe, a region forgotten by textbooks and history classes of the West. What I know now of political institutions, revolutions, and other historical events taught me to dig deeper, search for knowledge, and look beyond. Cold, snowy, and rainy weather of these countries may not be as appealing as the sunny, warm temperatures others will take you to; however, no other course offered could provide such knowledge as what you will be privileged to have after completing the European Union course.


Meredith Krause
Elon University offers 60 or more different study abroad programs during the course of the year from spring to Winter Term. Since there are so many places to choose from it becomes difficult to decide which one will deliver the best experience. Many students tend to choose a course that incorporates water and sunshine, but there are other courses that can offer more than just a tan. The European Union: The State of Europe is a course that many students underestimate when they read the brochure. During this WT course you do more than just travel to Germany, Belgium, Lithuania, and Hungary. During WT 2008, we were given several opportunities to take independent travel days to Amsterdam, Bruges, Nuremberg, Paris, Vienna, and many other locations. During our travels we were able to tour entire cities, visit several informative museums from the Chocolate Museum in Belgium to the Genocide Museum in Lithuania, learn new languages, eat delicious food, get the opportunity to speak with locals and get a better understanding of their culture, and meet with not one but two U.S. Ambassadors along with many other organizations involved with the EU. This course is not just for those with an interest in Foreign Affairs because there were 20 students with all different types of backgrounds from Business, Communications, Biology, Engineering, Political Science, Public Administration, and International Studies. Many of us came into this course not understanding anything about the European Union, but left with the knowledge of so much more than just the ins and outs of EU. We learned the history of these countries and were completely in shock as to how little we knew about the rest of the world. This experience has opened doors for many of us who took it and probably would have never happened if not for choosing to take this course. If I have learned anything from this course is that Europe has a greater effect on America than we understand and we can learn so much from their different cultures and their economic perspectives. The EU: The State of Europe should be greatly considered as a top choice for future Winter Terms because it delivers an unforgettable experience that will be very beneficial in the years to come as our World continues to unite.


Katelin Clark
Choosing the European Union trip for my winter term class was one of the best decisions I have ever made. While I could have gone surfing in Hawaii or bungee jumping in Australia, I picked the EU because it was a once in a lifetime opportunity that probably would never show up again. We visited 7 countries in only three and a half weeks and this variety was something that only the EU trip could provide. Whether it was learning about the functions of the European Court of Justice or touring a country’s Parliament, each activity taught us the importance of the European Union and we were able to see exactly how every piece was connected to the big picture. Free days were given out on a regular basis so there was a perfect balance between structured schedules and schedules that we created on our own terms. From this trip, I feel that I have become more knowledgeable and aware of what is going on around the world, and I am going to continue to stay informed on the progress of the EU.


Dave Matz
If you want to have the opportunity to speak with Ambassadors, visit European Union Institutions, travel to places you never thought you would visit and experience a variety of rich cultures, the European Union Study Abroad program offers just exactly that. While all of these contribute to an unbelievable experience, the academic aspect of the program is by far most rewarding. Through this program, students obtain a greater understanding on how the European Union originated, how it functions today and the vital role that it will play in the future. The European Union is undoubtedly playing an important role in today’s world. As a governing body for some of the most prominent countries in the world, it is essential as a student to understand and comprehend the workings and functions of this prominent institution. Because of its important role in a variety of worldly affairs, the program is applicable to every student regardless of their major or background. As a student who has had the opportunity to study abroad three times at Elon University and twice as a People to People Student Ambassador in High School, I can confidently say that I found this program to be the most applicable and enriching experience.


Chris Champney
Before I embarked upon the intellectual and cultural odyssey embodied by the European Union Course, I honestly would never have imagined the experiences it would present me. The course gave me a firsthand account on the inner workings of the growing international super state that is the European Union. Spanning 27 countries and encompassing more wealth, people and arguably more foreign influence than the United States, the EU presents itself as the dominate economic and political player on the current world stage. Most intriguingly the European Union is able to do this with no military whatsoever. The EU’s economic policy controls everything from your student loans to the price of the gas you put in your tank. Upon entering this course, I like most Americans had virtually no idea about the EU or it’s affect on my everyday life. However having toured the EU government institutions, met with ambassadors, and seen the inner workings of the most powerful bank and courtroom in the world, my understanding of that world has been shaken. Anyone who undertakes this course will gain a complex understanding of the institution which is supplanting the United States in virtually every area we have previously dominated.
Aside from learning about the EU I was able to walk the streets of Brussels, Vienna and Budapest whose architecture and elegance rival any city in the world. I was also exposed to a level of culture which I had never before experienced. While staying in Vilnius we attended the Opera Salome and saw the Lithuanian National Symphony which was a truly enchanting experience. I also gained a new found appreciation for the hardships which many Easter European peoples endured while under the Soviet Union’s tyrannical oppression. On a more personal note I was able to see the country of Lithuania where my grandmother’s family hails from. While there I experienced the kindness and history of this amazing little country and have developed a greater appreciation for my own family’s heritage.


John Chiaramonti
The European Union study abroad course offered at Elon is an incredible opportunity that no student should pass on. Before this trip I had little knowledge of European politics and now I am convinced that the EU will surpass the United States in political and financial capabilities in the upcoming years. I was fortunate enough to meet with two United States Ambassadors, one in Vilnius, Lithuania and another in Vienna, Austria. In only 24 days, I was able to visit Frankfurt, Germany, Luxembourg, Brussels and Bruges, Belgium, Amsterdam, Vilnius, Lithuania, Warsaw, Poland, Vienna, Austria and Budapest, Hungary. I was able to experience and take part of very different and unique cultures in Western and Eastern Europe. I now know that Europe has unified as a whole through the European Union treaties that date back to as early as the 1950s, but each member state is unique and independent as well.


Halley Spong
There are four words to describe the study abroad to the European Union: Once in a lifetime. Coming into this class I knew very little about the European Union, let alone, Europe itself. I had never been out of the country, besides going on cruises. I lived a sheltered life in which the only sort of worldly news I would read was from online websites. However looking back on this experience I’ve learned more about the European Union than I have about the United States. I was given the opportunity to meet the US Ambassador in Lithuania, as well as learn about a genocide that took place in Lithuania, just to name a few. I can honestly say that this experience has changed my life and I will always be grateful for having this opportunity.

My Bags are packed…I’m ready to go

(Budapest, Sunday) It all comes down to this. After three weeks and six countries we are packing up for the flight in the morning. Before we turn in for the night, we will have one last group dinner at a fun Budapest restaurant. Then it will be time to stuff all the souvenirs in suitcases and pack all the memories in our minds.

Of course, this last day was jam-packed. We started with an 11 am class starting to button-up what we’ve learned about the European Union. By noon we were at the Hungarian Parliament, a beautiful, ornate palace built by the Hapsburgs. This will be the last, great European building we visit on this course. After that, we take the subway back to the hotel and walk around the block to the synagogue.

The Budapest synagogue claims to be the second largest in the world, surpassed only by Temple Emanu-El in New York. The building is a Moorish style structure described as a wonderful catholic church—it is very different from what one would find in the USA. It can hold 3,000 Jewish worshipers at one time, with men downstairs and women on the balconies. Except for the Jewish high holidays, the synagogue never comes close to being that full. Hungary had one million Jews before WWII. There are 80,000 today. The courtyard holds the remains of 3,000 Jews killed by the Nazis and dumped there. It would be difficult to walk away unmoved.

VIENNA WAITS FOR ME

(Vienna, Friday, Saturday) You get extra credit if you recognize the song reference in the title. But Vienna surely did wait for us and it was a magical time. We left at the crack of dawn on Friday and were met at the train station in Vienna by a friend of Dr. Morgan who works for the US Embassy. Our first stop was a briefing at the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE). We heard from a press person with the organization—a Russian born journalist who had worked for the Reuters news agency in Washington. He was open and presented a worldview. We also heard from a press person with the US mission who gave us the American view.

After that, another treat. We got a briefing from Ambassador Greg Schulte, of the United States Mission to International Organizations in Vienna (UNVIE). Ambassador Schulte fed us lunch on one of the top floors of the mission with a commanding view of Vienna. More importantly, he gave about an hour of his valuable time to answer questions on a wide-range of issues. After that, we were on our own.

While most people caught the next train back to Budapest, a hardy band of eight students—and me—stayed overnight in Vienna. We found a hotel within throwing distance of the famous St. Stephan’s cathedral. We ate schnitzel that was bigger than the dinner plate. And we had a positively magical time in this most European of cities. It’s hard to describe. You must visit. We all arrived back safe and sound and ready to visit Vienna again.

GOODBYE CRUEL WORLD I’M OFF TO JOIN THE CIRCUS

(Budapest, Friday night) If you remember that song, you are older than you think. And if you want to get an accurate perspective on the bi-annual Budapest circus competition you really need to be of a certain age.

The best acts around the world compete here and the winners get contracts from the biggest circuses around the world, including Cirque D' Soleil. The “big top” where it is held is in the city park and had been around for about 150 years. The acts range from jugglers to acrobats to contortionists. There were guys jumping on a seesaw and flying through the air. There were people balancing their weight on one hand while twisting their bodies into inhuman shapes. There was even a comic dog act.

At one point Dr. Morgan turned to me and said, “We’ve seen all this before: it’s the old Ed Sullivan show.” Sure enough, if you are of a certain age you remember old Ed’s “really big shoe” would have members of the Hungarian Circus (who probably defected right after the show) as well as the Moscow State Circus and Chinese Acrobats. They were all there in front of us on Friday night.

They’re gonna put me in the movies….

(Budapest, Thursday) They’re gonna make a big star out of me. OK, not me.But someone is starring in a movie about the 1956 Hungarian revolution that is filming in our lobby. The star is carrying old suitcases, the “bellhops” are wearing old uniforms and some old lamps have been placed on the reception desk along with a bell. But not much needs to be done to transport this historic old hotel back 50 years to a time when it played a pivotal role in the planning for the revolution. The lights, cameras and large crowd of movie makers are very modern. Some of the students are in the lobby watching. And if you have ever seen a movie being made you know it is like watching paint dry…only slower. As for the title of this entry, my apologies to Buck Owens and Ringo Starr.

The students had the morning for independent study or to take care of chores or shop. The afternoon was spent in class followed by a trip to the US embassy to talk with the economic officer here. It was a fascinating hour with a knowledgeable diplomat who was very generous with his time. After that, we took the underground to Buda to see the traveling exhibit of Titanic artifacts (maybe this was movie day). It is incredible to see what has been scooped off the ocean floor and the story was presented in a very moving way. Unfortunately, we all know how it ends.

Tomorrow we are up at 5:30 for a three-hour train ride to Vienna and a full day of meetings that includes visits with some ambassadors and other high-ranking officials. Some of us plan to stay overnight, others may return here. Because I plan to stay, the next blog post may not be until Saturday night or Sunday.

The Sun’ll come out….

(Budapest, Wednesday) Today! The sun actually came out today. It has been unusually mild in this part of the world for January but it has been uniformly grey. It was nice to see the sunshine as we took the bus across the river to Buda. It was there that we talked with someone from the European Roma Rights Centre. These are the folks who look after the rights of Roma also called Travelers or Gypsies. This nomadic group of people has been persecuted throughout the years and they were victims of Adolf Hitler. They continue to be discriminated against. We spent an interesting 90 minutes hearing about the struggle to get equal rights for the Roma.

Students had the next 24 hours free for independent research. Some are going to explore the caves in Buda that were used by the Nazis in WWII, some are heading to a traditional Budapest spa for a soak in the hot springs that run under this city. I spent the day wandering around town, having goulash in the market and then walking to Gerbaud—a 150-year-old coffee house that instantly transports you back to 19th century Europe. It’s a great place to quietly sit, sip coffee, eat a decadent pastry and watch the world go by outside. It’s the kind of leisurely afternoon we Americans so rarely allow ourselves. It’s a shame really because it is a known medical fact that if you relax and eat slowly enough, pastries have no calories.

Tomorrow: a free morning followed by a trip to the US embassy.

Sunrise, Sunset

(Vilnius) Sunday was 1940 in Vilnius. We started at 10 am in the old Jewish ghetto where we met our guide, the daughter of an Auschwitz survivor. The next few hours transported us back to a time when Jewish residents of this city were forced into a small area where streets out of the ghetto were blocked and windows painted over; people were prisoners in these few blocks. If you were Jewish you wore a yellow star. And then it got bad as Jews were herded into one small area of houses, houses that were then set on fire with ghetto residents in them. Vilnius had 80,000 Jews before WWII, 3,000 after the war. There were 105 Jewish houses of worship before the war in this city knows as the Jerusalem of Europe. One synagogue remains. It was a sobering morning.

The afternoon was free time to do that final shopping or go to the top of the rebuilt castle tower for a last look at Vilnius. That evening we had our group goodbye meal at an Indian restaurant owned by a friend of Dr. Morgan. The food was excellent and the company even better. After dinner, Lithuanian-American friends of Dr. Morgan took everyone out for ice cream at Sopranos (yes, that’s the name of the gelato place—more American culture exported).

And it finally came to me: there is a pop culture reference to this country. Think, Cole Porter. Think, “Let’s Do It.” Here’s the verse:
In Spain, the best upper sets do it
Lithuanians and Letts do it
Let's do it, let's fall in love

Leaving on a Jet Plane

(Vilnius, Budapest, Monday) We had until early afternoon for that last minute Lithuanian lunch or pastry (both if we were really lucky). Then it was time for us to hustle into seven taxis for the ride to the airport. With relatively warm weather throughout our stay, we were all surprised as it finally started to snow just as we were leaving. But there was no problem getting there or getting through security. They called the flight and then many of our students were in for a surprise. We were loaded onto a bus that drove us along the tarmac to our plane parked on the field—a propeller plane. It was one of those 64 seat short hop props, the first time many had been on that sort of plane. So, as our student Amanda suggested, we weren’t leaving on a jet plane…but we did have a great ride. We stopped in Warsaw long enough for a quick brat and then onto another prop plane exactly like the first. Another smooth flight and we were on the three vans to the hotel.

The hotel is the nicest yet and one of historical significance. It is one of the oldest hotels in Budapest. Hitler used to climb up to a top structure (no longer extant) and look down at the Jewish ghetto below. The 1956 student revolt started with a rally in the lobby. And every major event seems to have started with a meeting in the lobby here. Our first night here we walked around the local area and saw where soviet tanks rolled down the streets in 1956. You can see the bullet holes in the area were students protested during those times and the soviets finally tried to end any dissent. We continued on and had a great group dinner.

On Top of Old Buda…

(Budapest, Tuesday) It was a day to learn about everything Hungarian. First stop, the history museum. We saw artifacts and learned everything about the culture going back more than one thousand years and continuing through WWII, the Soviets, 1956 and freedom in the 1990s. Then it was on to the market on the banks of the Danube for some goulash or sausage or stuffed cabbage for lunch. After that, we got a wonderful four-hour bus tour of Pest and Old Buda including a chance to go into St. Matthias church and a chance to see the city from the highest peak in Buda. A magnificent view and great afternoon. Our guide had some great insight into life during Soviet times as well as adjusting to the transition. We are all tired but having a great time, learning a lot, and enjoying this magical central European city.

UPDATE

(Budapest, Monday) Vilnius to Warsaw...Warsaw to Budapest. Everyone made it safe and sound...had great dinner...everyone happy. More details to follow.

Teach Your Children Well

Dr. Morgan asked our students what they have learned so far. Here is what they wrote.

By Jamie Lee DeVantier-Sophomore-Broadcast Communications
After taking about ten years of history throughout school, wouldn’t you think one teacher would have mentioned to one of the twenty of us something about Lithuanian history? Our class visited a Genocide Museum in the center of Vilnius, the capitol of Lithuania, on Tuesday where we were introduced with facts and events that occurred during the Soviet rule. Thousands of innocent people were tortured and killed. Although we have learned about the holocaust and how World War II ended in 1945; we found out it didn’t end for the country of Lithuania until 1991. Throughout the tour of the former KGB prison, now turned into a museum, we saw actual cells, torture chambers, and the execution room. The comfort level throughout the class was tremendous due to the amount of new disturbing information being presented to us. Thousands around the city, including many our age lived through this tragedy without most of the world being informed. This one visit made me rethink the importance of foreign aid and what the US government chooses to release to their citizens.

By Christopher Swartz
I believe that by being in the EU my fundamental understanding of the European state has shifted. I now feel that I have surpassed the general ignorance and misconceptions inherent in the American mindset and have been able to become acquainted to the numerous cultures of Europe. What I find most interesting is that these countries could pull themselves from the miasma of world war, shed their hubris, and build a collective union as strong (albeit complex) as this one. I believe that it will be interesting to watch how the EU reacts towards the new challenges off Islamic Ideological warfare, a strong outside presence in the new member countries, and the challenge of maintaining a strong, yet young, economy.

By Ryan Andres, Junior, Biology
The concept that surprises me the most about this trip hasn't been about Europeans, but instead about American attitudes towards Europeans. Most Americans automatically assume that every single European we come across on this trip will be able to speak English. Rarely will an American ever attempt to speak the local language first. Instead they just start speaking English and if someone doesn't understand them they simply get louder and slower with their words. One of my best experiences on this trip so far occurred in the Laundromat in Belgium. We ran into a very nice Belgian who spoke only broken English. While we weren't able to communicate much, he knew enough English to tell us that we were stupid for traveling to a country where we didn't know the language. After thinking about it and observing, I noticed that not only do most Americans not know how to speak European languages they make fun of Europeans for making mistakes in English. It just surprises me how everyone thinks of the United States as the most advanced, Western, and well-educated nation in the world yet very few can actually speak a foreign language. Instead we travel and expect others to learn our languages, adopt our customs and become more like us. Yet we still get mad when Europeans turn their backs on us for not even attempting to learn their language. On top of that we get mad when people don't help us when we are lost but how many of us would be willing and/or able to help a lost tourist who spoke no English back in the United States? All of these experiences just made me think that we should be more grateful for those that can help us instead of mocking and complaining about those that don't.

By Christopher Champney
In all honesty I really did not know what to expect when I landed in Vilnius, Lithuania. My grandmother’s family emigrated from Lithuania back in the mid 1800s from a town somewhere near the city of Kaunaus. Growing up next door to her I was much better acquainted with Lithuanian culture and history than the vast majority of Americans. However what I knew upon arrival did not nearly prepare me for the experience I would have in Vilnius. Our first significant stop was at the old Russian KGB prison. This was truly a moving experience. The brutality suffered by the Lithuanian people at the hands of their Soviet oppressors was overwhelming. Seeing the cells where people were tortured and the room where thousands met their death by firing squad instills an indescribable emotion in one's self.
Another highlight of the trip was the museum of Lithuanian National History. Here I was able to see how my grandmother's family would have lived for generations. I had heard stories from my grandmother of the old country passed down to her. She told me that they had lived as serfs tilling the land of their Russian lord for no pay and confined to their small wooden hovel in a state of virtual slavery. Luckily they managed to raise the money and sneak away aboard a ship to America otherwise I would not be writing this reaction. However to see the clothes, art, tools and hardships they would have used and faced reveled to me just how different their lives were from my own. Even though much of the history discussed dealt with Soviet oppression the hardships suffered by these people under foreign powers was very much the same. While at the museum I was particularly struck by one artifact. This was a sword used by a legendary Lithuanian general who led an army that rode to the rescue of the besieged city of Vienna, Austria centuries ago and saved it from a much larger Turkish army. I can remember my grandmother telling me this story as a child, as her parents must have told her, reminding her of a time when their people where a powerful nation free from oppression by foreign powers. This link with my family's past will leave an indelible mark upon my memory one I will tell my own children one day.

By Natalie Moore- Junior
One thing that I will always remember from this trip is the day we went to the genocide museum in Lithuania. This was formerly a KGB (Russian secret police) jail and the horrible atrocities that took place in this building left me speechless. We saw the rooms where people were held, tortured and then executed just for being Lithuanian. The worst part of the tour was the realization that there were prisoners in this jail during our lifetime and the rest of the world did nothing about it. These people went through a time of persecution that can still be seen in the untrusting character that comes out when they realize that we are foreigners. It bothers me to think that people could be treated this way somewhere else in the world today and we know nothing about it. I think the world has to wake up and realize that we still need to fight for human rights.

By David Matz -Senior
Business Administration – Finance
As a student who has several experiences studying abroad, I have been most impressed by the Communist Party influences that have been left by the Soviet Union and are still in place upon the city of Vilnius. Throughout Vilnius, many of the buildings that we have seen and visited still have signs of Communist influence. For example, the architecture of the Lithuanian Parliament and the sports arena clearly display the plain block architecture that is viewed as quite ugly. Additionally, Russia currently controls a significant influence on the content available on television in Vilnius. Most recently we have seen the EuroNews television network blocked due to the fact that they were discussing the sensitive relations between Russia and the European Union. Due to the fact that Lithuania is relatively a newly established country, many stories and pictures of the rule under communist Soviet Union on Lithuania are displayed in museums that we have visited. The people of Lithuania are very proud of their history yet stories of communist rule are still ever present throughout the city.

By Katie Tabor
Everyone hears about West Europe, what about East Europe? I myself never thought about what happened to countries like Lithuania and Estonia after WWII. At the museum in Vilnius, I final came to realize that Lithuania has never really had freedom. To me, after WWII all the countries were given their freedom back for at least a few years. I did not realize that Russia immediately took over countries. No freedom for over seventy years is a concept that is hard to grasp. People today can still remember what it was like to have been born without freedom. For example, many of the people we have meet in Vilnius remember what it was like to be controlled in every aspect of their lives. They know what it is like to have no power or free will. I have never been oppressed or forced to do anything against my will. To me knowing that the people of Lithuania were not free for so long is a culture shock for me. If I learn nothing else on this trip, I have at least learned more about East Europe than I have ever known.

By Meredith Krause-International Studies: Concentration in Europe
Elon University-Class of 2008
Throughout this course we have been to many different locations, but Lithuania seemed to catch my eye the most in terms of its History. In America we are given our own history as well as that of Europe in our basic history courses, but never have I heard about the Genocide of the Lithuanian people. It came as a complete shock to me when we visited the Genocide Museum here in Vilnius because I was under the impression that the only genocide that had occurred was the Holocaust. I was terribly wrong. During our tour of the museum we were informed of the different methods in which the KGB (Russian Committee for State Security) interrogated, tortured, and killed approximately 1300 Lithuanian people. What shocked me the most about this horrific event is not only how the KGB decided to torture the poor individuals predominately through means of water torture, but how the rest of the world turned their backs to them as they screamed for help. In America it is easy to believe that the rest of the world has no affect on us, but that only fuels the European’s stereotype of us as being ignorant. Ultimately through our visit to Vilnius I have learned how important the protection of human rights is and what can happen when they are taken away. This country has given me a different outlook on Europe and how important it is to step outside of our Western bubble and appreciate what we have been given.


By Whyte Carter -Junior Elementary Education Major
Throughout history groups of people have turned to religion to guide them and give them hope during time of great hardship. After spending some time now in Lithuania, I have found that this trend has not been followed. Lithuanians were originally Pagan and later mixed Paganism with Christianity in the sixteenth century. Under the severe oppression of Russian Communist rule, all religion was squashed. The many magnificent churches and cathedrals found in Vilnius were transformed into grain storage sheds and prisons. I was surprised to learn that when the Communist regime fell 17 years ago, the Lithuanian people did not scramble to reestablish their religious practices and buildings. Like most of Europe, Lithuania is a very secular country, leaving most churches empty on the weekends. I for one thought that Lithuania would have been eager to celebrate religion, especially after all of the suffering they have endured. However, while the Russian Orthodox cathedrals and Catholic churches still stand firm (although some are undergoing reconstruction), Lithuanian religiosity seems to have crumbled.

By Alex Coffman, Sophomore, Business Management major
For most, Lithuania is a country that can’t be pointed out on a map. The country’s history is one that is rarely heard about. There aren’t chapters written about it in history books and few professors even know its significance. Even membership to the European Union in 2004 hasn’t really developed Lithuania’s importance for most. For our class, Lithuania has been a visit full of a rich history, one that doesn’t go very far back. Our professor, Betty Morgan, is well aware of Lithuanian’s position in this world and the struggle it has gone through for most of it’s time. What most people don’t realize is that Lithuania is a country whose longest run of independence was 24 years. Now, after becoming free from Soviet rule, they are still 7 years from breaking their current independence record. Our class has also learned about an almost completely un-talked about genocide that ended in our lifetime. Even with their freedom, there is a constant fear of a Russian eye looking down on this country. We call it history, but really it is the present. This newly independent nation seems to be still searching for some of their independence.

By Amanda Zamzes-Senior
Public Administration/Political Science
Many of the students arrived in Vilnius excited to see what a former Soviet Union nation would look like almost two decades after the Soviets had been removed. I, however, arrived ill and could not wait for time to rest. After spending some time in the hotel resting, a trip to the Baltic-American Clinic was in order. While probably not to my parents enjoyment, this was one of the most enlightening experiences. After filling out the appropriate forms I tried to explain to the nurse what was wrong. Words like "gross" and "yucky" are not words that work to describe anything in Lithuania. It was particularly nerve wracking when the nurse was trying to stick me for an IV while talking to the doctor in Lithuanian. I finally understood what it would be like to come to America and not be able to speak English. The only difference is that in Europe many people speak English and many of the menus are also written in English. This appears odd to me because the United States does not have a national language so there is no reason why other languages should not be common place whereas a country such as Lithuania has it's own national language and in addition many people speak English.

*For all those nervous parents out there everything is fine and I'm on the mend.

By Kourtney Cloak
During our first meeting for the European Union study abroad trip, I was skeptical of the course. While my friends were going to come back with tans from Australia and Peru, I was going to cloudy, rainy, cold countries in Europe. Our professor even warned us about the little sun we would see and the depressing weather we would surely experience. While the trip began with me being groggy, tired from the plane, and ready for the bed waiting for me back at the hotel, once adjusted to the time zone I was ready to conquer Europe with my classmates. After having already traveled to European countries that attract the most tourists, such as Paris and London, I was anxious when we arrived in Lithuania. Most of my friends laughed when I told them I was traveling to such a remote and unknown country. However, I quickly discovered that most students who did not sign up for the EU study abroad trip were missing out on a great opportunity Elon offered. My first impression of Lithuania was it was cold and bleak. The buildings were architecturally unappealing and no one wanted to help me figure out anything in English. After traveling the city and exploring it on my own, I learned a lot more than I previously thought I would. I feel like this city is forgotten and discarded as an Eastern European city with not a lot to offer. However, Lithuania has so much history that is was never mentioned in Western European history. After visiting the Lithuanian National Museum, the old KGB jail, and the Lithuanian Parliament, I realized how much history this country has which goes unnoticed. I was embarrassed at my ignorance of this country's struggles and battles that lasted well into my lifetime. I feel like this country is so under-rated and forgotten. Western civilization needs to pay more attention to Lithuania and the battles these people are still fighting to gain control of their country.

By Halley Spong-Sophomore-Corporate Communications
Imagine living in a country that has been independent for almost 50 years total. Since World War II the Soviet Union has occupied the small country of Lithuania causing a massive genocide in which thousands of citizens were either executed or sent to concentration camps in other countries. In 1991 the Russians finally left, allowing the Lithuanians to move on with their lives. However in reality the Russians never really left.
Thursday morning during our class session Dr. Morgan informed us that on Wednesday a TV channel was turned to English which broadcasted an event dealing with the United Kingdom and Russia. Although Lithuania is supposed to be independent the Russians exercised their power and turned the station off. The station wasn't turned off because it was in English, but because it had to do with Russia being viewed negatively. The Russians didn't want the Lithuanians to see what was going on so they made sure the broadcast couldn't be viewed.

This incident has only made it more clear to us that the Russians aren't willing to give up what they believe is theirs. The idea that Russia still holds so much power over Lithuania also makes us wonder if they would take over the country again. This possibility of another occupation isn't far from people’s minds however hopefully this time the possibility won't be ignored.

By Kristopher Mannen, Junior, Engineering and Physics Major.
We have been in Lithuania now for 4 days and this experience has been much different from the rest of the trip. Having started in Western European countries, the sudden switch to the Lithuanian way of life came as a bit of a shock. The amount of pain and suffering this country has gone through and the incredible fight against oppression is unimaginable. What is most upsetting to me is that while I live in the United States where my country is supposed to be the biggest super power in the world, I can honestly say that until now I have heard nothing of the events that took place in Lithuania. To me, it seems as if this was another “Rwanda” where our country knew of the problems but didn’t want to recognize them. Despite the oppression, Lithuania has come a long way. For the most part, the city has been structurally rebuilt and is in fairly good condition. Technology is just as up-to-date, if not better than most places in the United States and they are extremely modernized. The people, however, appear to be in a somewhat depressed state, and rightfully so. They don’t seem to be as friendly and welcoming as has been the case in most of the Western European countries that we’ve visited. All put aside though, I have had a wonderful time in Lithuania, learning both about their past and experiencing their culture, and I am looking forward to the final few days here.


By Christina Peterson-class of 2010-International Studies/French Major, Business minor
Thus far, Lithuania has been a nation that has opened many closed doors, even invisible doors, for me. This is a country that I knew absolutely nothing about before setting out on this journey to discover the EU.

Lithuania has only been an independent country for 17 consecutive years. In this time, the people as a whole have made significant strides in reestablishing themselves after Soviet occupation. Though they suffered many hardships, they have begun to break away from foreign rule and become an independent nation.

While considering Lithuania’s new sovereignty, I began to reflect on the founding of our own nation. In comparison, the United States went through many wars over 50 years (the Revolutionary War, the War of 1812, the Civil War) before they officially became a recognized nation. Lithuania, on the other hand, has only had 17 years of independence and has already grown significantly by creating and maintaining permanent stores and marketplaces. The rebound of Lithuania after Soviet occupation has been incredible and is without a doubt something to admire. In these 17 years, efficient public transportation and agricultural production have also been formed. In addition, Lithuania became a member of the European Union in 2004. Even the United States could not fulfill all of the economic requirements to be part of the EU.

Currently, I truly believe that the Lithuanian people have a real sense of who they are and what they want to become. This could not be more rare for such a young nation. They are making positive strides and connections not only economically but politically as well. It might take a few more generations to realize the full capabilities of the Baltic States such as Lithuania, but I have full confidence that if they continue to follow the path they are on they will achieve great success.

By Katelin Clark-Sophomore-Broadcast Communications
With a plethora of books and maps in my suitcase, I approached the EU trip confident that I was completely prepared and aware of what I was about to explore. However, my experiences in Lithuania slapped me with a harsh reality that I did not expect. From my basic research, I could easily tell you that Lithuania is a country of about 3 million people and that the Soviets and Germans fought for it in WWII, but this doesn’t even begin to explain what has happened and is continuing to happen underneath the surface. What I have learned in my past four days here goes way deeper than I could have ever imagined.
Our class trip to the Genocide Museum was something I will never forget. Taking an extensive tour of the rooms in which many Lithuanians were tortured (just years before by the Soviets) was enough to give me the permanent chills. However, what is incredibly moving and inspirational to me is how much the country has developed and has built a promising future that once seemed unimaginable.

Just sitting at the bus stop, I have watched many elderly people pass by, and thought about all of the violence they must have been through; how they have surely lost a friend or loved one; how they have had to fight hard for independence. But, the fact that life goes on for them, and that they can still laugh and enjoy life, gives me hope for the future of the country, and makes me appreciate all I have.

By John Chiaramonti-Senior-Biology Major
After spending three days in Vilnius, Lithuania I have noticed many differences between Vilnius and the other European Union countries. One day we had access to Euronews, which was a new network that described European Union policies and markets. When this network ran the story of the dispute of England versus Russia, within 12 hours, the network was shut down and the station in red writing said, the show has been cancelled. I thought that Lithuania was an independent country, but after seeing how Russia has control over the Baltic States, I have come to understand that Russia still has control over the smaller European Union countries. I soon learned that Lithuania will soon lose their energy independence and have to rely on Russia for energy.

By Jeff Benjamin-Junior, Business Major
Lithuania is a country that has been free for about 30 of the past 200 years. The 170 other years Lithuania has been dominated and suppressed by the Polish, Germans, or Soviets. This would lead you to believe the country would be backwards and have low standards of living. I've been surprised at how much the country has caught up in the past 17 years in which it has been a free country. It is hard to recognize any sign the soviets were here. They occupied the country from the end of World War II, 1945, to the fall of the Soviet Union, 1991.

Lithuania has a population of about 3.5 million (301 M. in US) and a GDP of $15,300 (US $43,800). Even with the drastically different statistics between the US and Lithuania, the two statistics Lithuania doesn't seem that peculiar to an American.. There are high end stores that play American music, American TV shows, nice restaurants, and of course a McDonalds within one block of our hotel. Of course there are poorer areas of the city, but in all it seems familiar to small US cities. Some of the visible differences include fewer skyscrapers and a population that is taller and blonder than the US (Lithuania loves its basketball team and I'm told has the highest % of blondes in the world). Lithuania seems to have done well moving from a small soviet satellite nation to a democratic one. Certainly Lithuania is experiencing small bumps on the road to being a prosperous democratic nation, but I'm surprised at how far it has come in the past 17 years and how much we have learned in the past 12 days.

By Michael Monkelien
One of the most important things I have learned so far is the relationship between Lithuania, the European Union, and Russia. After being held by Russia for so long going through prosecution, Lithuania is about to be dependent on them once again. Very soon Lithuania’s last power plant will be closed down and they will be very dependent on Russia for all energy sources. I feel like the European Union, being the next big authority should be responsible in looking after its states. I don’t think that this little country should have to depend on the country that put it through so much to supply them with the energy it needs to survive. This would just be giving control back to Russia. The EU should take it upon them to make it their goal to supply their states with the power and other resources needed. They should not let a member state be so dependent on another country, especially if it just won freedom from that country. I don’t think that the EU is watching its borders very closely and that if they are not careful, there is a possibility Russia might step in again, in one way or another.

By Meghan Toomey-Senior-Majors: Political Science/Public Administration
Minors: Business Administration/International Studies
Communication through words, body movements or hand movements, it is something that is part of everyday life. How do you decide who you communicate with or how you communicate with them? In the United States, communication, for the most part, is articulated between those who speak the same language. Americans hesitate to communicate with those who do not speak English. Every month there is a bill on the house or senate floor trying to make English the United State’s primary language instead of encouraging Americans to learn other languages. It must be so hard for foreigners who do not speak English to visit because Americans are not welcoming to non-English speakers nor do most take the time to use other forms of communication to interact. We chose not to communicate.

When traveling the EU, most Europeans speak two, three languages, and if English does not happen to be one, they are usually more then happy to have you point things out. Speaking multiple languages is usually encouraged and many times necessary for everyday life. In Lithuania, there seems to be less English speakers then other counties we have visited thus far in the EU. Most Lithuanians speak their own language as well as Russian because of the strong Russian influence in the country. Like other EU countries, if they do not understand what is being articulated, most try and understand using other forms of communication. We have run into some cases where we have run into Lithuanians who are somewhat timid about speaking with us, but it is becoming more and more clear why as we learn about there history of foreign influence. However it will make me think twice the next time I run into someone who does not speak my language.

Stopped in to a church I passed along the way…

(Vilnius, Saturday) It was a dark and stormy morning. After that lead, you know this posting has to get better. But it really was dark, cold and wet…the worst weather yet on this study abroad. The students had a 1 pm test so that left me the morning free. I decided to walk the few blocks to one of the shopping districts. I only got halfway there before the biting wind made the cold rain sting as it hit my face and I sought refuge in the nearest open building, the big, beautiful Orthodox church (see picture posted a few days ago). The building was packed. It was the day the Orthodox celebrate Epiphany, commemorating the baptism of Jesus in the River Jordan. There were young people, families with little children and old people who never gave up their faith despite having lived most of their lives in a country where the Soviets allowed only one religion—the worship of Communism—and where churches were turned into surplus furniture storage or animal barns. You did not need to be familiar with the language or the customs to be moved by this sight and this ceremony. I headed back into the cold and wet, warmed by the notion that the freedom and faith that coalesced in that room were things we take for granted but the folks here embrace.

Back at the hotel, the students were still working on their tests. They finished and all appear to have survived the experience. They had the rest of the day free and headed out to see the sites, to shop for themselves and others, and to grab some fine Lithuanian food.

Next: students get their turn.

A Night at the Opera

(Vilnius, Thursday, Friday) Another grey day in Vilnius. And another great day where the weather didn’t matter. We started the day by walking to the Lithuanian Parliament where our young guide, who spoke excellent English, was a friend of Dr. Morgan and a fellow Fulbright scholar. She showed us everywhere around the buildings including where the Soviet puppet legislature sat and the new chamber where the independent legislature sits. Most sobering is the still preserved piece of glass in the front of the building where a bullet hole marks the last Soviet attempt to keep Lithuania under Soviet control. We got to go on the floor of the windowless, old Parliament with students taking turns at the podium until Dr. Morgan took her rightful place in the leadership position with the rest of us dutifully looking toward her for guidance (see picture).

The halls of the Parliament are lined with pictures of famous visitors. Richard Nixon, then the former president, was the first US leader to visit free Lithuania. George W. Bush is the only sitting US President to visit here. They love him here because he promised that the US would never let Lithuania be taken over by another country. And we saw the first leader of the modern, free Lithuania. A man by the name of Landsbergis. I had to get a picture in front of his portrait.

The new Parliament is bright, with plenty of natural light. It exudes an air of transparency and that is no accident. We got to watch a session and a vote…and the students were even in a cut-away shot from the session on the evening news. It was exciting to see this young democracy in action.

That evening was our night at the opera. The opera house is across the street from the hotel and it is a beautiful structure. Built about 30 years ago under Soviet rule, it has glass on three sides with numerous chandeliers lit up. It is a warm and inviting place from the street where one gets a sense of high culture. Everyone dresses well and arrives early for the opera. It is a place to see and be seen. The object is to get there early enough to grab a seat at one of the many bars or tables in the lounge area. Before the show patrons sip Champagne, cognac, espresso, cappuccino, fruit juice or multi-colored fruit concoctions. And what would those drinks be without a great slice of cream filled cake or fruit or the very pretty and colorful bowl of what appears to be Jell-O. After this classy start, it’s time to watch Salome.

Salome is based on a story about John the Baptist, written by a French playwright and interpreted by Oscar Wilde in the late 1800s and adapted as an opera by Richard Strauss. It’s your basic love story with hints of incest, necrophilia and literally losing one’s head. Hey, it’s opera, what do you expect? Most of the students had never seen an opera and had no idea about what they would see. Event those of us who had been to an opera before did not expect to see this interpretation.

There was nothing classic about this staging as was obvious from the start when the performance opens with a half-dozen contemporary soldiers in pink camouflage and Salome dressed in a black trench coat looking like a Hollywood interpretation of a 1940s spy. Then it got weird. The King Herod character was portrayed as an old communist Apparatchik, decked out in his commander’s uniform complete with sash. A communist party red star hung over the stage. There were elites sipping champagne…and peasants with meager rations. And there was a waiter (or bellhop or something). Instead of Salome losing clothing during the dance of the seven veils, the old, evil commie was stripped down to his boxers. But when the head came on stage, it was faithful to the original. All this while the opera was sung in German…with Lithuanian translation flashing above the stage. Not helpful for most of us in interpreting what was going on. But the allegory about the bankrupt communist ideology and how it cannot survive needed no words to interpret.

Friday was one of those days when a lot of little things tried to conspire to keep us from doing what we planned. The idea was to go to the American Center at the US Embassy to watch a Hungarian movie called “Szabadság, szerelem” or “Children of Glory” in English. It is in the European format (PAL) so we needed to watch it there. It took some time for them to get the equipment in place and, once we started watching the film, the power went out twice. Still, we managed to get through the film. It is a fascinating and well-produced love story set against the Hungarian Revolt of 1956 and the Hungarian Water Polo Team victory against the Russians at the 1956 Melbourne Olympics—considered the bloodiest water polo contest ever. It has English subtitles that are very easy to follow. The film is only available in European format and does not appear to be on sale in the US.

In late afternoon we met with a Lithuanian-American who told students how her family escaped the Soviets around 1940…by fleeing to Nazi Germany. It was hard to imagine those kinds of choices or the depravation and tragedy she and her family suffered. She grew up in the United States, became a successful attorney, and now she works on getting Lithuania further on the road to democracy and economic parity with the world. She and her husband split their time between Lithuania and the United States.

The evening was spent at the philharmonic listening to a Russian violinist child prodigy. He was a master who played with tremendous technical procession as well as great feeling. It is remarkable to see complex classical pieces played so well and without any reference to a printed musical score. Some of our students were seeing this type of orchestra for the first time. The conductor was a short Estonian with glasses, wearing a sport coat with collar popped up. Dr. Morgan said he looked like one of SNL’s Mike Myer’s characters. Everyone seemed to have an enjoyable evening.

Baltic Dreamin’ on Such a Winter's Day

(Vilnius, Tuesday, Wednesday) OK…maybe the title is a bit of a stretch but it has been cold and wintry since we got here although no snow. Still, it has been a bit of an assault on the thin Carolina blood of many of us. Fortunately, Dr. Morgan warned everyone that it would be cold so we are all well prepared.

Tuesday had an emotionally draining start. We walked about 15 minutes to our hotel to this unassuming, large building facing the main street. This was the former headquarters of the KGB (and the Nazis for a time during the war). The first thing Dr. Morgan pointed out to us were the pock-marks on the building side. That’s where the KGB would shoot Lithuanians and leave their bodies on the sidewalk in the hopes of catching a family member claiming the body. The walk inside the facility was equally grim. All around the building there are plagues with names and dates of birth and death. The names are of people who went into KGB headquarters but never came out. Many were younger than our students. Inside is equally bleak. Tiny 3x3 cells where a half-dozen prisoners were kept for interrogation. Slightly bigger cells where four or more prisoners were kept for months or longer with no heat, no toilet and concrete walls and floors; Torture chambers where prisoners were beaten, shocked, given psychotropic drugs and had unspeakable things done to them. But torture was officially banned by the government (isn’t it always?) so, instead of torture, the KGB could use a “means of physical influence” or “active interrogation.” It is amazing how governments will torture the language to try to convince the world that they are not torturing people.

And then there was the secret room. The room where some prisoners were taken and promised deportation to work camps only to be shot. It is a small, concrete room with a sloped floor so that blood would flow down a drain. A water pipe on one end of the floor helped keep the blood flowing, making it clean for the next killing. Many of our students stood on the spot where those their age stood a generation or two ago and had bullets callously fired into them by Soviets who were “just doing their jobs.” Behind where our students stood were the bullet holes that defined that Soviet era of repression here in Lithuania. Some of those killed were dissidents trying to free Lithuania from Soviet tyranny; Some were lawyers or professors—enemies of the state; and some were just ratted out by neighbors who thought they could gain some advantage—or save their own skin—by turning in their friends. For the world, the second war ended in 1945. For Lithuania, the war didn’t end until the Soviets left in 1990. Some here refer to those 45 years as the “war after war.” We all walked away from the KGB horror house shaken…and changed.

The afternoon was a pleasant change of pace as well as a real treat. We all took the long walk up the hill to the US Embassy. Like US Embassies everywhere in the world, this was a heavily fortified and ugly structure. We waited in the cold for up to 30-minutes to clear security but it was well worth it. While some groups get to meet with public affairs officers or low level officials—all of whom are interesting and informative—our group got to meet with the US Ambassador to Lithuania, John Cloud. Dr. Morgan has known Ambassador Cloud for a while and, despite a very busy schedule, he agreed to talk with us for almost one hour. It was a far ranging and candid discussion with questions about Lithuania, the EU and the role of the United States in the changing world landscape as well as questions about the diplomatic life and how to raise children while being posted all around the world. It was an honor for us to meet the man who speaks for our country here in Lithuania.

Tuesday night we were all free to discover the city. Wednesday was a day for independent study allowing students to discover whatever they wanted. For me, the day was best summed up by my colleague, Dr. Anthony Hatcher, who suggested there should be a song: "I Got My Virus in Vilnius." A catchy tune or, more accurately, a catching tune. Dr. Morgan was sick first, then one of our students, then me on Wednesday. Fortunately, it has been that extremely un-rare and inevitable illness known as “the sniffles” (or sometimes the variation known as “the crude”). This is why we all brought plenty of Dayquil and Nyquil (or the cheaper generics) so it hasn’t slowed us down any. Everyone will catch a cold sometime during this trip…. it’s almost guaranteed. And nothing to worry about.

Most of those who were feeling well on Wednesday went to a nearby castle and spent the day exploring that. A few stayed in town and went to the mall and explored Vilnius. All returned safe and sound.

There are no pop culture references for Lithuania

These entries often have a film or music reference (many from the 60s or 70s) as the title. But try to come up with something for Lithuania. Go ahead. Try. I’ll wait. Give up? There is no “April In Paris” or “Meet Me in St. Louis” written about cities here (“Moon over Vilnius”? probably not). That’s what promises to make this stop so interesting. Most of us don’t spend any time thinking about Lithuania. We may go to Belgium for chocolates, Paris for the Eiffel Tower, London for Big Ben, but why come to Vilnius? What is here and why does it matter? That is what we will be exploring for the next week. But first, a look back at the last few days.

The students all had a great time in Amsterdam and Paris and all made it back to Brussels safe and sound. The Paris crowd saw every major site in the course of just a few hours and managed dinner, too. It sounded exhausting. Most of the Amsterdam folks got to see the Ann Frank house and one of the art museums. The folks who stayed over in Amsterdam had their return train break down but, despite that, they still made it back in time for Dr. Morgan’s one pm class.

Sunday, our last day in Brussels was spent in class in the early afternoon followed by a visit to an exhibition on the 50th anniversary of the European Union. Then it was back to the hotel for a class on Lithuania and the EU before dinner on our own. Morning departure would come very early.

Everyone left the hotel in Brussels before 6 am to head to the Central Railroad Station for the train to the airport. At the station, we all dragged our luggage down two flights of stairs to track three knowing we would make the train coming in five minutes. Then came the announcement: the train has been changed to track six. We rushed back up the stairs and then dragged our luggage back down the stairs to track six…only to watch our train pull away. A bad start to a good day. The next train came in 20 minutes and we made it to the airport in plenty of time for coffee and a croissant. We sailed through check-in, immigration and security and then got our big treat: except for one other passenger, we were the only people on the 737 Air Baltic flight non-stop to Vilnius. Everyone got his or her own row of three seats to stretch out on and grab a little more sleep. Arrival in Vilnius was easy, taxis to the hotel a breeze and we checked in and regrouped in half an hour for a long walk through Vilnius. We ate lunch, saw the major sites, learned our way around town and went home exhausted. We were on our own for dinner and everyone is so tired after this day that a good sleep is practically guaranteed. Tomorrow: the KGB museum and meeting with the ambassador.

Elon Winter Term in the 21st Century

We talk a lot about globalization. We talk about Tom Friedman’s theory that the world is flat. But Winter Term at Elon is better than any theory about our shrinking world. Yes, we have gone to five countries in a little more than one week. Other Elon study abroad trips are working at a similar pace. And yes, we see The Gap and other American chains in every city and we can see bad American television dubbed into a variety of tongues. But it is truly an Elon Winter Term in the 21st Century when the best—and free—Internet connection is not in Western Europe but in the east. And when the first message received via email in this former third world country once dominated by the Soviet Union comes from a student on another study abroad who is traveling through China, Singapore and Australia. Despite vast distance and unfathomable time zones, we can keep in touch in real time. The world doesn’t get much flatter than that.

Waffles and Chocolates and Beers, oh my!

(Brussels, Thursday, Friday and Saturday) Brussels may be the home to many of the most powerful institutions in the European Union but it holds a far greater personal power: a few days here has the ability to expand your waistline exponentially. Three of the most important local products are guaranteed to raise your cholesterol…and to raise an even bigger smile.

The waffles! They’re everywhere. Beautiful round or rectangular batter ironed into snack food perfection. Every street corner sells them and the toppings just add to the delight. One coffee shop near the hotel makes the lightest waffles you can imagine and includes a little pot of the deepest, darkest molten chocolate—not too sweet—to spread on top. With a strong cappuccino and time spent lingering, it starkly illustrates the difference between European and American food culture.

Chocolate is also different here. It is fresh, comes in every permutation imaginable and, again, is far less sweet than what we are used to back home. There are big chains and small, local chocolatiers. A Brussels chocolate factory even has a tour…with free samples, of course. I believe some of our students are intent on trying a sample from every chocolate place (and we insist on trying any chocolate they have bought—just to make sure it is safe, of course!)

Belgium claims to brew more than 400 different types of beer. We are hopeful our students will just accept that claim and not try to count. It is worth noting that European attitudes toward drinking are different than American attitudes. It is legal to drink here at 18 and beer and wine are very much part of the culture. Young people often grow up with beer and wine at mealtime and understand the way those beverages complement meals. European students do not binge drink to the extent that some American students do. Our students, those who are legal and choose to drink, are encouraged to understand the approach here: that the local beers should be sipped and appreciated in moderation. Beer and wine are part of the culture…drunkenness and loutish behavior are not and that behavior will not be tolerated by the local authorities or us. The Belgium beers range from the relatively familiar to strong Trappist beers traditionally brewed by monks and unique cherry and raspberry flavored beers. Different beers are brewed in different regions and folks here are justifiably proud of these well-crafted brews. These are drinks with taste and substance...clearly not the Bud Lite many students are used to.

But enough about our stomachs, our brains are also being filled. Thursday was spent on a tour bus around the city allowing us to soak in the hundreds of years of history. One of the highlights was a stop at the site of the 1958 Worlds Fair where we went into the Atomium (http://www.atomium.be/Main.aspx?lang=en ) …a huge replica of an Atom that you can explore, see a panoramic view of Brussels, and even have a sandwich. Fifty years ago, we all had such great hope for what the future might hold, how “Atoms for Peace” could make the world a wonderful place…if cold war nukes didn’t annihilate the human race first. The exhibition provides a look at a time that is very familiar to baby boomers but needs to be explained to students to give them some perspective. The Jetsons helps explain that vision of the time. But, as Dr. Morgan said, “Where is that future they promised us?” (We are both anxiously awaiting delivery of our flying car and robotic maid).

Students had all day to hop on and off the city tour and explore parts of the city that interested them. Unfortunately, Europe was closed that day. Actually, it was “Mini-Europe” that was closed…a country-by-country miniature recreation of the iconic sites from every country in Europe that is next to the Atomium. At least we are getting to see many of the real sites. The evening could be spent trying some of the great local restaurants (no Pizza Hut or McDonalds allowed!). Everyone turned in early because Friday was a busy day.

We grabbed a morning train to Brugge on Friday. This is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe. Miraculously untouched by all the wars, Brugge has houses, churches and other buildings dating back to the 15th century…and they are all authentic. We spent the morning at the University of Europe were some of the students seemed interested in applying for the one-year Master’s program there. The afternoon was time for onion soup, pastry…and the sales that are traditional in Europe in January. We were home by dinner time, many students went to the local Laundromat (called the “Wash Club”) and, with clean clothes in hand, had another early evening before heading out of town on Saturday.

The students had a free day to travel on Saturday and had the option to stay overnight wherever they traveled as long as they let us know where they would be. Three-quarters of them decided to go to Amsterdam (about three hours away by train) and the rest went to Paris (less than 90 minutes on the new fast train). The students booked their own travel and even booked a train that left around 6 am. They were bound and determined to get the most out of their day. We’ll see some of them tonight, I’m sure. The rest we’ll see tomorrow when we will all be going to a museum. I stayed in Brussels to do laundry, look at the sales and find some street food. The frites in Brussels are like nothing else in the world. Followed by chocolate, the feeling is sublime. Good thing we are walking about 6-7 miles every day. Tomorrow, Sunday, is our last full day in Brussels before heading to Eastern Europe.

EU-tiful day

(Brussels, Wednesday) The morning started out dark, chilly and rainy. But our day was spent going to the heart of what this study abroad course is about. Students started with breakfast and a lecture by Dr. Morgan about the institutions we would be visiting. Then it was a quick walk to the subway, purchase of fare cards and a few stops later we were at the European Parliament building here. The students saw where the 750 or so members of the European Parliament sometimes meet and they had a terrific lecture on the inner workings of the Parliament. The it was lunch time.

Lunch was on our own in the old area near the brand new EU buildings. Some students found Italian restaurants, some ate French food. Dr. Morgan and I stopped for one of my favorite European lunches: A hole in the wall carryout where the baguettes were fresh, the Parma tasty and the Brie better still. Sandwiches don’t get much better than that. And one hour later, we were back walking to our next destination.

The European Commission was nearby. It is one of the major parts of the puzzle that is the European Union governing structure. It was here where students got one of the most engaging lectures on this difficult subject. The lecturer was a leading law school professor who had the ability to make this difficult subject understandable and interesting. The 90-minutes went by quickly. Something to think about: There are 27 different countries in the European Union, all of whom directly elect representatives to the EU Parliament. That is almost one-half billion people who are represented here, more people than the US and Russia combined.

After our last lecture, it was back on the subway and free time for the students. It even started to get sunny! Thursday was a less formal day where we spent time together exploring Brussels.

On The Road Again….

(On the bus from Frankfurt to Brussels via Luxembourg) Dawn comes late in Northern Europe in January. Our bus came early. At seven am, our bleary-eyed group stumbled out in the dark to the coach waiting in front of our hotel. With a quick “Auf Veidersen” to Frankfurt we headed down the Autobahn toward Luxembourg. The students all seemed impressed with our transport: comfortable seats, a beer tap and coffee maker (neither were functioning), a bathroom…and a private sitting area in the back. A group of the boys commandeered the sitting area.

Everyone had enough energy from morning coffee to swap notes on what they did on the last night in Frankfurt. Most went out for dinner in the downtown area or in the more up market part of the city on the other side of the river. They did some shopping, some wandering about or met some locals and expats in the pubs near the train station. It was a successful trip, best summed up by one student who declared, “I got my schnitzel.” After that it was surely time to leave Germany.

It wasn’t long before the bus grew quiet as we continued on in the morning darkness past fields and farms. One notices the number of wind turbines jutting up from farm fields, supplying cheap and clean power to nearby houses. After about one hour on the road, there is a church outlined in the pale reddish glow of the rising sun as the nearby village lights fade into morning. We are making excellent time as we push through the bucolic countryside. Being ahead of schedule means we can stop for coffee.

It wasn’t exactly the Vince Lombardi rest stop on the New Jersey turnpike but the place we stopped had good coffee, clean bathrooms, a convenience store where we could stock up on water and cookies and, of course, a Burger King (thankfully closed). Well, maybe we were closer to Jersey than we thought. It wasn’t long after our stop that we pulled into the European Court of Justice.

The ECJ is not a place one would stumble upon. It is in the new, European Community area of Luxembourg. It is here where disputes among corporations and individuals in united Europe are adjudicated. We sat in one of the smaller courtrooms, surrounded by booths where interpreters sit translating proceedings between 23 different languages. A clerk to one of the justices talked with us for more than one hour on the intricacies of the European Union judicial system. After our talk, it was time for lunch in the court canteen. Typically, there was a very wide variety of dishes from all over Europe—pasta, pork, beef dishes—as well as salads, deserts and, of course, beer and wine by the bottle or glass. It was the lunch hour rush so the students were forced to split-up and sit with strangers—as one does in Europe. It was a great experience for them as they spoke to people who worked at the courts and swapped life stories. Before we left, we were given a big packet of information about the court, including the annual report. The packet was rather heavy. How heavy you wonder? One of our women students remarked that it “weighed more than my shoes.” We left the court with enough time to head to the center of old Luxembourg and spend 40 minutes exploring this wonderful old historic town that could be the picture postcard for the stereotype of what so many of us might imagine Europe should look like. After a few souvenirs, some pictures and some pastries, the bus headed down the road toward Brussels. The Belgium border was a mere 10 minutes away.

It was just after five by the time we arrived at the hotel in Brussels and the sun was already setting. The hotel is a typical European city three star…clean, comfortable…and in a great location. After dropping luggage in our rooms, Dr. Morgan took us on a tour of Brussels. We saw some grand old ruins, some churches and the old market area and guildhalls. Terrific sites but the highlight…for the students and us…were all the chocolate stores! Chocolate to the left of us…chocolate to the right…in front and in back of us…and all wonderful. It sounded like dinner to many of us but we did get proper food at a wonderful, typical Belgium restaurant in the old market area. Many of the students tried the local specialty—mussels. The food was great. On the walk home we had to stop by the waffle shop for Belgium waffles with chocolate. Some how, we managed to waddle back home: tired, full, happy…and with wonderful chocolate stained clothing. Three countries in one day…topped by chocolate. It doesn’t get much better.

Tomorrow: The European Parliament and the European Commission.

Germany

(Frankfurt, Germany) How can 60 hours feel like 60 days? We’ve only been here those few hours but we’ve seen and done so much that it feels like Germany has been our home for months. Where to start. Despite the late takeoff from JFK, arrival in Frankfurt was right on time. A quick trip through customs, a short coach ride and we were at the hotel—where our rooms were hours from being ready. So, instead of unpacking and taking a shower we stacked our bags in the hotel luggage room (see picture) and we were quickly out the door to discover Frankfurt.

The tram stops in front of our hotel and within 15 minutes we were at the central rail station walking toward the old market area of Frankfurt. Dr. Morgan showed us some of the area and a tour guide took us to an observation deck on top of one of the tallest buildings in the city with a great view of everything, showed us around the historic church, the Goethe house and other significant areas. Little pre-World War II history remains because of extensive bombing during the war. But the rebuilt church includes the remains of some of the original Roman structures on the site. It was at the church, after our extensive walk just after departing our overnight flight, where one of the students quipped that she could now compete with her parents tales of a rough childhood because surely, “we had walked for miles and miles—up hill both ways!” The reward for all that hard work was dinner in a traditional German restaurant—and an inadvertent show.

The students spread out at a number of tables and each table got a big platter of meat: a few racks of pork on a bone, some boneless pork chops, some sausages—all on top of potatoes and sauerkraut. There was more than enough food for even the hungriest guys who worked up big appetites in our walk around Frankfurt. And then the show. Dinner was the night before Orthodox Christmas so there was a very big Christmas tree in the square outside the restaurant and it was visible from where we were eating. It was easily as high as the three story ancient ceremonial hall it stood in front of—the hall where successful sports teams are congratulated. And of course it was fully decked out in colorful Christmas lights, lights that we noticed start to flicker a bit as we were eating dinner, and then started to flicker more—until they stopped flickering as the beautiful, tall Christmas tree burst into flames! Before long those unmistakable sounding European sirens filled the square as the fire brigade rushed to the tree. The fire was put out, the ancient hall was saved and the tree remained standing—but without the lights (Journalists reading this take note: the traditional Christmas story, “family of five homeless after tree catches fire,” clearly has its international counterpart). After all that excitement it was back to the hotel to check in and sleep very soundly. (Hear students Mike Monkelien, Meghan Toomey,Dave Matz,Katie Tabor, and John Chiaramonti at dinner that night--before the fire--talking about their first day in Germany. Click on "F'Furt dinner reax.")

Early on Sunday we all got up and took the train to Nuremburg. Three and a half hours later we were in that historic town that was prominent in the rise of the Nazi party, the home to the Nazi party rally grounds and Hitler’s grandiose vision of the Third Reich as well as the place where Nazi leaders faced war crimes tribunals and international law relating to war crimes was developed. The courtrooms were open for tours as was an excellent museum on the site of the Nazi’s unfinished Congress Hall where one can see stark evidence of Nazi propaganda and the horror that resulted from it. You cannot walk away without that stunned shock of “how could this happen” even 70 years after the fact. The students were all sent out on their own and they all managed to successfully navigate the city with little input from their professors. They learned a lot—about history and themselves. For the trip back home, we grabbed sandwiches, pretzels, doughnuts and other sustenance for the long ride home (I’m sensing a food theme for this study abroad).

Today started with Dr. Morgan giving a lecture about the European Central Bank and then it was off to the bank for a tour. As one might expect, security is very tight. Empty your pockets, take off your belt, your jacket and your sweater. Even then one is likely to set off the detectors and trigger a hand search. It almost seemed as if many of our students got a free massage from security. Another trip through the detectors and I’m sure all of us would have a free x-ray of our spleens. But the bank is very important in the life of the new united Europe…and this is the 21st Century were everyone is security conscious. The lecture at the bank was fascinating—the students got a glimpse of the economic future they will be dealing with throughout their lives. With the weak dollar and the strong Euro it is a future some predict may already be arriving. At the end of the tour of the central bank the students got free samples—of central bank pencils and notepaper. The afternoon was spent exploring Frankfurt on our own followed by an early evening lecture by Dr. Morgan on the European Courts, our first stop tomorrow as we head to Luxembourg early in the morning. And then, if it’s Tuesday, it must be Belgium.

UPDATE

We are safe and sound in Frankfurt. All students...and luggage...accounted for. Great days Saturday and Sunday. Details to follow. (Note updated audio from before take off from NYC)

Eight miles high….

(40,000 feet above the Atlantic) It’s finally here. Departure from the USA heading to our first stop in Frankfurt, Germany. Finally. The flight was delayed about 1:15 but the take off was smooth on a cool, clear New York night. With the tailwinds, we should still be in Frankfurt by 9:30 Saturday morning. The students are all tired but in great spirits.
Some have been up and traveling since before dawn…flying in from Washington, DC, Orlando, Kansas City, Greensboro, Raleigh and other places around the country. Everyone got here in plenty of time and got on the plane with no problems. Most of the luggage got on the plane with us. Only one student is without luggage as we head toward Germany (don’t worry, her parents know so if you haven’t heard from your daughter…it’s not her). She was delighted to find a toothbrush in the complimentary pack given to everyone on board the flight. She has already found other students her size and the clothes swap is ready to go. She is not worried at all…the kind of great attitude that will help make this study abroad a success.

If you are of a certain age you might remember the magic of airplane travel. If you’ve flown at all in the past few years you probably (with apologies to John Sebastian) no longer believe in magic. The cabin is crowded, the extra legroom for international coach travel disappeared years ago and, as I’ve characterized it before, trying to sleep turns us all into human origami. But after a wonderful airplane dinner—vegetable ravioli or chicken in some difficult to identify sauce—it’s time to catch a few hours sleep. Frankfurt will be here in just a few hours and it will be a long day. And getting to Germany to start this marvelous trip makes it all worthwhile. Next update from Germany.